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Bar Heather European-inspired food hub opens in Byron Bay

A new wine-focused restaurant is bringing something a bit different to Byron Bay – and the tale behind each dish is as enchanting as the food itself.

Quail, fried bread among other staple dishes at Bar Heather by Ollie Wong-Hee. Picture: Jess Kearney
Quail, fried bread among other staple dishes at Bar Heather by Ollie Wong-Hee. Picture: Jess Kearney

In the bustling, new alleyway of Jonson Lane in Byron Bay sits Bar Heather.

It’s a European-inspired restaurant boasting a sophisticated fit out by Miles Thorp Architects, owned by Luna Wine Store and Lo-fi Wines James Audas and Tom Sheer.

Inside the moody Bar Heather interior. Picture: Jess Kearney
Inside the moody Bar Heather interior. Picture: Jess Kearney

From its whip-smart staff to its menus, even down to the font, Bar Heather is a stickler for details and it shows through its hallmark wine list.

Oysters and Bar Heather’s sought after fried bread. Picture: Jess Kearney
Oysters and Bar Heather’s sought after fried bread. Picture: Jess Kearney

Mr Sheer said the team wanted to open a restaurant where wine was front and centre, with a wine list you could drink and travel through geographically.

“(James and I) would go to Europe a few times a year together – Paris, Vienna, Leon – and we would go for wines,” he said.

Bar Heather’s array of wines on offer. Picture: Jess Kearney
Bar Heather’s array of wines on offer. Picture: Jess Kearney

“We would find nooks and wanted to bring that back under the same roof.”

It shows. A Gut Oggau Masquerade Rot bottle from Austria alongside Poolside, an Australian crowd-pleaser, stood side-by-side on my table after a rough chat with waiter Vincent, who promised he was not yet a sommelier.

Bar Heather food, wine and menus. Picture: Sarah Buckley
Bar Heather food, wine and menus. Picture: Sarah Buckley

Alongside knowledgeable waitstaff and a versatile wine list, Bar Heather’s trifecta lay in its decadent menu created by head chef Ollie Wong-Hee, whose resume includes stints at Sixpenny and Ester.

Bar Heather food. Picture: Jess Kearney
Bar Heather food. Picture: Jess Kearney
Bar Heather food. Picture: Jess Kearney
Bar Heather food. Picture: Jess Kearney

Mr Audas said: “Ollie’s always thinking ‘How can I match the wine rather than how can the wine match the food?’”

“I think it’s challenging him to look at seasonality with produce, but also making him think about how to interact with the wines,” he said.

“I tip my hat to him,” added Mr Sheer.

Bar Heather’s head chef Ollie Wong-Hee and owners Tom Sheer and James Audas. Picture: Jess Kearney
Bar Heather’s head chef Ollie Wong-Hee and owners Tom Sheer and James Audas. Picture: Jess Kearney

The narrative assigned to each dish is as enchanting as the food itself.

A local farmer, 25km north in Tyagarah, had his cherry tomatoes make their way into Mr Wong-Hee’s famous mussel dish.

Mussels with cherry tomatoes and anchovies. Picture: Sarah Buckley
Mussels with cherry tomatoes and anchovies. Picture: Sarah Buckley

The wild venison was caught as fair game with a bow and arrow after being tracked for two to three kilometres.

Bar Heather’s wild venison, charred onions and wattleseed sabayon. Picture: Sarah Buckley
Bar Heather’s wild venison, charred onions and wattleseed sabayon. Picture: Sarah Buckley

The shishito peppers with malt vinegar and mascarpone had a one-in-six chance of being extra spicy.

Sydney rock oysters from Hastings River and shishito peppers with malt vinegar and mascarpone. Picture: Sarah Buckley
Sydney rock oysters from Hastings River and shishito peppers with malt vinegar and mascarpone. Picture: Sarah Buckley

Don’t be fooled though – this suave restaurant will not intimidate the humble diner.

As one satisfied customer said: “Bar Heather isn’t wanky – You can walk in from the beach with your thongs on and they’ll still give what you need”.

Bar Heather

 4.5

Original URL: https://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/news/nsw/byron-shire/bar-heather-europeaninspired-food-hub-opens-in-byron-bay/news-story/92707f31044131e8b4fd511682c9fd29