Why you should visit Thailand, according to an elephant expert
A passion for animals and sustainability drew John Roberts to Thailand … here’s why he thinks you should visit too.
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As the Director of Elephants and Conservation for Thailand's Minor Hotels, John Roberts shares why he thinks people should visit as soon as they can.
The place I return to is…
Chiang Rai because it is my home now, to be honest. Don’t make the same mistake as I did and get married to a local, as you might never leave.
The best thing about it…
Is the city itself now has an airport and all the modern amenities. There is no need to travel to Chiang Mai for the cinema or foreigner-sized shoes anymore. However, I love that it still has a small-town vibe and peaceful countryside is just a left turn off any road.
Make sure you visit…
Doi Tung and the mountains between there and Doi Mae Salong. The views are spectacular. The different cultures and the history of the mountain peoples and their importance in global geopolitics – from the Kuomintang’s escape from China, communist uprisings, and the US’s drug war – is fascinating. The coffee’s really good too!
Best place to eat is…
Anantara Golden Triangle’s new restaurant, Samsarn. Chef Jinopong brings ancient local dishes to life using sustainably sourced local ingredients. Each dish tells its own culinary story about the history of the local region. The restaurant is only a couple of months old but it is set to be a star. It passes the biggest test: my wife is Northern Thai and she cannot usually abide anyone messing with traditional flavours but even she loves it.
For trail running…
Book the Doi Chang Trail or the Akha Trail in Pa Hee, both held in the wet season. I do the baby distance of 15 to 17km but, even then, each course holds more than 1000m of climb. I love the camaraderie on those slippery slopes, and the amazing scenery en route. Equally important is spending the night in the mountains in two very different villages. Doi Chang has increasingly modern accommodation and restaurants, while Pa Hee is closer to the Akha tribal roots but you can still get a very good bottle of wine up there if you know where to look! (Hint: Pa Hee Cellars).
The hotel I stay at is…
Anantara Golden Triangle. When it comes to sustainable luxury in the province, no one else touches them. The experiences on offer all accentuate the region’s natural character and are designed to put you in touch with the local community. The views of the Mekong River and rural Myanmar and Laos are spectacular. Plus the opportunity to walk with elephants or sleep in the Jungle Bubbles while elephants roam freely around you at night is unique.
The resort delivers all of this with 20 per cent solar sourced electricity, food waste providing biogas, 100 per cent cage free eggs from on site and local suppliers, Green Growth 2050 certified Platinum and the highest, internationally certified welfare for the elephants.
The best time to go is…
If you’re not trail running, winter (November-February). In December, night-time temperatures can drop to 10C, which catches many people out. Daytime temperatures peak at 25C. The air is clear night after night with starry skies and, if you stay high enough up, you will see the sea of mist in the valleys in the mornings.
The most unique thing…
about Chiang Rai is it has been a magnet for the Thai artistic community for decades and these artists have left their mark, with world famous installations like Wat Rong Kun (The White Temple) or Wat Seua Ten (The Blue Temple) and Ban Dam (The Black House) with architecture reflecting more the ancient, local traditions. Chiang Rai Contemporary Art Museum also showcases less well-known artists. Sri Don Moon Art Space serves great local, community sourced food at the adjoining La Valée restaurant.
The culture is…
Very diverse. This area has been at the crossroads of history for centuries. My local village speaks mainly Shan, but there are also Chinese speaking villages, and you will often hear languages originating from Tibet or ancient Angkor. Akha, Lahu, Lisu, Hmong, Khmu are just a few of the local resident peoples. Chiang Rai itself predates Chiang Mai which means “new city” in the local language for a reason – despite itself being 700 years old it is still the upstart!
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Originally published as Why you should visit Thailand, according to an elephant expert