Why Melbourne is Australia's best cultural destination this winter

Want to know what to do this winter in Melbourne? If you're a culture vulture, allow this to be your guide. 

Beetlejuice! Beetlejuice! Beetle… If you know, you know! The audience at “Beetlejuice the Musical” (playing at The Regent Theatre until August 31) certainly did and loved every minute of this hilariously witty show that adapts the cult Tim Burton film for the stage. 

Eddie Perfect, the titular naughty demon delivering one-liners and cheeky asides, tells the audience, 'It's a funny show about death,' but don’t be put off; it’s as touching as it is irreverent. I saw it at the conclusion of a winter trip to Melbourne, a pop art chaser to a few days of cultural indulgence that began with RISING.

Now in its fifth year, RISING is a refreshingly offbeat festival of new art, music, and theatre designed to encourage you to explore the city as temperatures begin to fall. In short, it’s a vibe, featuring hot music artists like Suki Waterhouse and Californian dark folk artist Jessica Pratt, whom I caught at one of her two exclusive shows, and artists like multi-hyphenate Miranda July who created a brilliant interactive show about mini golf called Swingers together with Australian artists such as Kaylene Whisky.

I also saw the highly anticipated BLKDOG by uber-cool British choreographer Botis Seva, which was described as a kind of “hip-hop exorcism” of contemporary dance. It’s a sucker punch of a show.

BLKDOG was wild to see

There’s a friendly rivalry among cities in Australia, all vying to be the cultural destination this winter. For this writer, it's hard to beat Melbourne for its unique blend of offerings, art culture, and, of course, food. A cornerstone of Melbourne’s winter offerings this year is the French Impressionism exhibition from the Museum of Fine Arts, Boston (until October 5), exclusive to the National Gallery of Victoria.

Eight years in the making, it’s a do-over after the original show was abruptly cancelled in 2021 due to the pandemic. I daresay the new iteration is even better with the inclusion of additional works. The Boston Museum’s collection is renowned and having more than 100 works on display is truly extraordinary. 

The Boston Museum's collection is extraordinary

The exhibition traces the late nineteenth-century artistic movement, showcasing key figures who rejected state-sponsored Salon conventions and exhibited their ‘impressionistic’ works independently. It highlights that Impressionism was once unpopular, with these artists viewed as rebellious for their innovative techniques, unique subjects, and urban depictions.

Visitors can see 16 remarkable Monet works in a room resembling the oval Musée de l’Orangerie in Paris, featuring haystacks, lilies, street scenes, and snowy landscapes, providing a space for contemplation. Along with works by Berthe Morisot, my favourite, and Paul Cézanne, Édouard Manet, and Claude Renoir, the exhibition offers a sensory experience amplified by a magnificent setup reminiscent of grand Bostonian mansions, complete with red panelling, gold ormolu, and velvet sofas, creating a sumptuous atmosphere. 

Kimono is a great way to round off the exhibition

I recommend rounding off the exhibition with a visit to Kimono (until October 5), as part of a combined ticket. The Impressionists were inspired by Japanese printmaking, making it a perfect accompaniment. Showcasing over 70 garments from the NGV’s collection, Kimono is a feast of embroidered silk kimonos adorned with birds and flowers, as well as lacquerware, accessories, woodblocks, and posters. It features work from the Edo period to today, including contemporary pieces by Issey Miyake and famous Kyoto designer Jotaro Saito, from a long line of artisans, reminding us that the kimono remains a timeless garment. 

Eat

Why not keep the French theme going at Chris Lucas’ superbly chic Maison Bâtard? Tucked behind a lacquer door, it’s a stylish city oasis, spread across several levels with an inner courtyard and open roof. The Nicoise is delicious, but the cheeseburger with frites on the side is mon dieu!

It would be sacrilege to not eat here

Stay

Hyde Melbourne Place is a brilliant addition to the city’s hotel offerings. The rooms are cosy, perfectly appointed, from the slate grey Frette sheets (yes, I noticed) to the Bison glassware and the Leif body products. It’s contemporary luxury. Mid Air on the rooftop offers a perfect breakfast or a cocktail under the stars, with brilliant views of the city. Alternatively, you can head down to the basement bar, Mr Mills.

Cosy and well appointed, you'll have few complaints here

Originally published as Why Melbourne is Australia's best cultural destination this winter