Heading to Japan? Look beyond the major cities for a less crowded and more affordable holiday experience.
As magical as they are, there’s more to Japan than the celebrated cities of Tokyo and Kyoto.
Whether you’re seeking insights into traditional culture, a winter alternative to Niseko or an overnight stay at a Buddhist temple, these less-visited cities and regions deliver rare, serene and memorable experiences.
Branching out to alternative places and optimising Japan’s efficient bullet trains can also mean a more affordable journey.
You will struggle to find a better alternative to heavily touristed Kyoto than the city of Kanazawa in the Hokuriku region. Where Kyoto has the Gion geisha district, Kanazawa has the preserved streets of Higashi Chaya. For a traditional garden, there’s the beautifully landscaped Kenroku-en. To that you can add the centuries-old Omi-cho food market, the historic houses of the Nagamachi samurai district, and a range of traditional arts and crafts. Kanazawa is only two and a half hours by bullet train from Tokyo, covered by the money-saving Hokuriku Arch Pass. With seven days of unlimited rides, that’s an especially good deal for anyone planning to combine Tokyo with multiple stops in (or on the way to) the Hokuriku area.
Niseko might be the hottest Japanese ski resort for Australians, but it’s also becoming a destination predominantly for non-Japanese. For somewhere with a more local character, head 20km east to Rusutsu Ski Resort, which ranks even more highly than Niseko with many avid Japanese skiers and snowboarders. Spread over three low mountains, it offers close to 40 runs for a mix of ability levels, but also has a reputation for great back-country and heliskiing, in addition to a host of resort facilities. All that without the crowds or cost of Niseko. It’s all downhill – but in a good way.
This rugged, mountainous peninsula is only 100km south of Osaka, but its blend of pristine nature and spiritual sites make it feel like a different world. A good starting point is spending a night at a temple in Koyasan, where you can take part in morning rituals before exploring the town’s cluster of World Heritage sites. There are dozens of temples with tatami mat guest rooms, but Ekoin Temple also has English-speaking monks and accepts online bookings. Elsewhere on the peninsula there’s the option of hiking the ancient Kumano Kodō pilgrimage trails, which connect three of Japan’s most important shrines, collectively called the Kumano Sanzan. On the coast, you could mix in some kayaking in the blissful town of Kushimoto.
During the Edo era (1603 to 1868), this photogenic pair of villages on the border of Gifu and Nagano prefectures were staging posts on a key inland route between Kyoto and Tokyo. Today, both Magome and Tsumago are defined by their well-preserved wooden buildings, some of which are still homes while others function as atmospheric guesthouses, cafés, craft stores and museums. You can follow in the footsteps of Edo-era travellers here, with a several-hour walk through the lush valleys and gorges between the two villages. Ideally, plan on staying a night in one of the rustic inns here, as neither village is within easy daytrip range of any major destinations.
If you’re staying in Tokyo and want a memorable side trip, Nikko ticks a lot of boxes. First, it’s home to the Unesco World Heritage Toshogu Shrine complex, with buildings adorned with wood carvings, gold leaf and vivid paintings – Edo-era maximalism. Second, you can visit Nikko either as a daytrip or an overnighter, the latter with a stay in a traditional ryokan: an experience that includes tatami mat guest rooms, elaborate multi-course dinners, and soaks in soothing hot-spring baths. That would also give you enough time to add nearby Lake Chuzenji and Kegon Falls to the trip. The good news is that it’s not expensive to get to Nikko: the limited express service between Tokyo’s Asakusa Station and Tobu-Nikko Station, which takes about two hours, will cost you around $30.
North of Tokyo, this under-visited region is packed with things to do, has more affordable accommodation options, and can easily be explored on a budget with a money-saving JR Tohoku Rail Pass. To call out just a few highlights, you could visit the mountaintop temple of Yamadera (pictured), hike parts of the 1000km-plus Michinoku Coastal Trail, cycle through the rice paddies of rural Tono, or take a boat trip through islet-studded Matsushima Bay. In winter, you’ll also find great skiing and relaxing hot springs in Zao Onsen, while the summer season brings major festivals, such as the parade of giant floats at the Aomori Nebuta and the traditional street dancing of Morioka’s Sansa Odori.
In the northeast of Shikoku (the smallest of Japan’s four main islands), the laid-back city of Takamatsu is a fun and affordable base for exploring the islands of the Seto Inland Sea. Grab a short ferry to the slick galleries and art installations of Naoshima Island, as well as several smaller islands that have been given a new lease on life in recent decades by art projects. Takamatsu itself is also worth exploring, not least because of the magnificent Ritsurin Garden. Designated as a Special Place of Scenic Beauty, it’s designed around multiple ponds and landscaped hills, with pathways that lead to tea houses where you can stop for green tea.
This picturesque port town in Hiroshima Prefecture, 100km east of Hiroshima city, mixes retro charm with hipster elements. Think petite temples, winding backstreets and glimpses of small-town life, plus a smattering of roasteries, design hotels like Onomichi U2 Hotel Cycle, and arts and craft stores. The town is at one end of the Shimanami Kaido, a popular and scenic 70km cycling route that hops across small islands in the Seto Inland Sea via a series of bridges. There are bike rentals in town, if you get the urge to go for a spin.
See also:
I took a 5-day Japan trip for under $1000
Where to go in Japan in every month
Never do this when you visit Japan
Once you’ve used a loo with a lid which raises and lowers automatically and a heated seat which rotates to self-clean, all others seem inferior.
The multifaceted air sign's going to love these