I tried $100 fish and chips, (and the chips alone were worth it, even though there were only 10 of them)
These fish and chips are not to be found in a greasy take-away on a high street, but in Harrods. They’re also by a Michelin-starred chef.
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Would you pay $100 for fish and chips? That’s the question I set out to answer when I visited London’s poshest fish and chip shop.
These fish and chips are not to be found in a greasy take-away on a high street, but in Harrods. They’re also by a Michelin-starred chef. Tom Kerridge’s Fish and Chips restaurant is in the newly-relaunched Dining Hall of the world-famous department store in Knightsbridge.
It’s a suitably lavish setting – a heritage-listed art deco hall with soaring ceilings, arches and tiled friezes and plush bar stools arranged around gleaming brass bars and different eateries. It’s a stunning space and other than the designer handbags you pass when you walk in, you’d never know you were inside a store.
Kerridge’s Fish and Chips “shop” is in the corner, with a retro eat-at bar area and a few tables. The dining hall is very much aimed at the kind of consumer who wants high-end food to go with their high-end purchases and all the tables in Kerridge’s were full on the Monday evening I visited, with a mix of Knightsbridge locals, shoppers and American tourists, none of whom appeared fazed by the prices.
Yes, they’re undeniably high, but then, you wouldn’t come to Harrods looking for a bargain.
Deep-fried market-day fish and chips, with a fresh catch from Cornwall, starts at £37 ($70), battered Cornish brill and chips is £52 ($100), or you could opt for deep-fried whole lobster and chips at £80 ($150).
My friend and I ordered starters of pea-fritters and mint sauce, £11 ($21) and hash browns and taramasalata, £12 ($23). Both were tasty, although the hash browns were stand-outs.
But we were here for the fish and chips, so I went for the Cornish brill, deep-fried with Kerridge’s signature gluten-free batter. My friend ordered the market-day fish, which was haddock.
We also had sides of “Hardcore slaw” and minted peas, £8.50 each ($16), Kerridge’s refined versions of coleslaw and mushy peas, mainly because we thought a vegetable ought to pass somewhere in the vicinity of our plates. Both were excellent – the peas light and fragrant and nicely cut through the batter.
The brill was beautiful – flaky, light and perfectly-cooked. The batter was thin, crispy and non-greasy and didn’t leave you with that slightly queasy feeling you often get when tucking into seaside fish and chips.
The haddock was equally fluffy and the portion enormous, but I think if you are prepared to pay £37 for fish and chips, then I’d stump up the extra for the Cornish brill, which was indeed, brill. There’s also the option of having it grilled, for £45.
Meanwhile, the chips were next-level. Hand-cut and triple-cooked, they were the best I have ever had. Crunchy on the outside, perfectly fluffy on the inside, these are the chips of your dreams. They arrive in a bowl and you get around 10 of them, but it’s unlikely you’d be able to eat more.
The fish and chips are served with three sauces - Matson curry, tartare and pease pudding, a split-pea thick sauce - which were all perfectly-presented and brought out the flavours of the fish wonderfully.
For anyone who has any room left, desserts are ice-cream sundaes with a house-made waffle. But there was no way I could attempt one.
With starter, main and side, plus a glass of wine, it was £75 per person ($142), not insignificant, but also not incomparable to dinner at other London restaurants – especially in Knightsbridge.
As to whether it’s good value, it depends on what price you put on location and experience. It was an excellent meal, without doubt. And I’d definitely go back for the chips.
The writer was a guest of Harrods
Originally published as I tried $100 fish and chips, (and the chips alone were worth it, even though there were only 10 of them)