My No.1 Seoul tip: Never underestimate the value of a local guide
Whether you’re visiting Changdeokgung Palace or bar-hopping in Jung-gu, a local guide is a must for any first-timer in the South Korean capital.
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Despite it being my first visit, Seoul felt strangely familiar – perhaps because of my obsession with K-dramas. But it would have been a rookie mistake to assume I could navigate the city alone. South Korea’s capital is a vibrant, neon-lit maze where below the soaring skyscrapers streets pulse with the perpetual rhythm of millions of footsteps. Yet, amid this modern hustle, pockets of history stand defiantly against progress and the city retains its rich royal heritage.
Finding my footing in the company of a local was just one advantage of being a guest of the Four Seasons Hotel Seoul. The hotel offers several experiences led by guides or I could tailor my own tour according to personal interests. My guide, Marshall, was a charming, fashion-savvy local in his 20s, eager to show me his hometown. Our first stop would be one of Seoul’s five royal palaces, followed by a tasting tour of street markets. Marshall would also introduce me to some K-beauty hotspots (his skin was flawless), and point me towards the coolest dive bars and places to feast on bibimbap (rice bowl) and bingsu (dessert).
Queen for an hour
I was initially hesitant to wear a hanbok (traditional Korean dress) for fear it might be seen as disrespectful, but Marshall reassured me that visitors at Seoul’s grand palaces honour tradition in this way. With so many hanbok rental shops around, it seemed a popular practice, so I changed into the stunning outfit he had chosen for me, and accessorised with sparkling jewels woven into my hair.
Marshall shared the history of Gyeongbokgung Palace, Seoul’s first and most famous royal palace, built by King Taejo, the first king and founder of the Joseon Dynasty (1392 to 1897). However, on the day I arrived, it was closed. Instead we visited nearby Changdeokgung Palace, a Unesco World Heritage site regarded for its distinctive architecture that sits in synergy with surrounding nature. Built by King Taejong, the third monarch and fifth son of Taejo, Changdeokgung was where the last royal descendants spent their final days. It felt fitting to honour them by wearing my striking hanbok in gold, a colour traditionally reserved for royalty and particularly favoured by queens.
To market, to market
Comfortably back in my own clothes and feeling famished, I could smell the delicious aromas wafting from Gwangjang Market before we arrived. As Seoul’s largest, liveliest and longest-serving (since 1905) food market, some 5000 vendors contribute to its frenetic atmosphere. I felt overwhelmed trying to decide what to taste first, with choices from soy-marinated crab to knife-cut noodles made famous by Netflix’s Street Food Asia, to live octopus – best eaten writhing, according to Marshall; I politely declined.
I discovered new Korean favourites, too: bindae-tteok (mung bean pancakes) and mayak kimbap (the mini iteration of kimbap rolls – cooked rice and vegetables wrapped in nori and brushed with sesame oil). Mayak is a reference to narcotics, which was fitting, considering how addictive they were. We paired them with frosty potato beer, which tasted better than it sounds, and rolled out deliriously full, having spent the equivalent of just $30.
K-beauty powerhouses
Marshall recommended exploring Myeongdong, Korea’s busiest retail area. Here K-beauty giant Olive Young has six stores. I found myself battling to secure the last few Bio-essence face masks as other sought-after products seemed to vanish before my eyes.
Snail mucin (aka slime) is a K-beauty (and TikTok) favourite, and on learning it’s been used in Korea for centuries to soothe and hydrate skin, I added some to my basket, along with Sulwhasoo, acclaimed for its ginseng benefits, and to which Marshall attributes his glowing skin. In total, my K-beauty haul amounted to 12 products for just over $150, a steal compared to prices back home.
Dive bar hopping
After bidding farewell to Marshall, I acted on his last piece of advice and set out to wander the 3km stretch of Euljiro in Jung-gu. The area is named in honour of General Eulji Mundeok, who saved Korea from invasion by China’s Sui Dynasty in 612, but can cheekily be referred to as “hipjiro” for its hipster vibe.
In the 1950s, this industrial hub was filled with print, paint, and hardware stores, but more recently it has become a vibrant art, food and music scene. The juxtaposition of old versus new includes printing presses whirring beside bars boasting secret vending machine entrances, and rundown buildings, where a narrow staircase might lead to a chic art space, brew house or a rooftop bar frequented by celebrities sipping soju.
Some of the best dive bars seat fewer than 10, so it’s tricky to land a coveted spot. But if that spot happens to be in a cool retro nook decked out with an extensive LP collection, where you can order whisky and play your own tunes, the chase is so worthwhile.
Banger bingsu
I’d heard about the cult Korean iced dessert bingsu and I was delighted to find Four Seasons Hotel Seoul celebrates it luxuriously, with the hotel’s pastry chefs creating decadent seasonal offerings each summer. Apple mango pavlova bingsu, made with the rare jeju apple mango, known for its delicate sweetness and fragrant aroma, sounded blissful.
It arrived looking like an enchanting flower garden on a plate. I cracked its crisp outer meringue and plunged into layers of silken marshmallow, organic milk and honey-infused shaved ice, mango sorbet, mango compote, tart passionfruit sauce, strawberry gel and lashings of rich vanilla cream. Condiments of more mango sorbet, white chocolate pearls, and edible flowers probably weren’t required, though some friends would have been welcome to help split the $140 bill (126,000 Korean won). It was the ultimate Korean treat, though, and I had absolutely no regrets.
How to get to Seoul
Korean Air flies direct from Sydney to Seoul daily and from Brisbane up to four times a week. koreanair.com
Where to stay in Seoul
Four Seasons Hotel Seoul offers stunning city views, five exceptional dining options, state-of-the-art fitness facilities and traditional Korean saunas, plus a range of curated guest experiences.
The writer was a guest of Four Seasons Hotel Seoul.
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Originally published as My No.1 Seoul tip: Never underestimate the value of a local guide