We Cruise On… Ms Fridtjof Nansen

If this polar expedition ship seems a little bigger than its twin, that’s because it is. 

A1200km stretch of Norway’s coastline was a fractious trade route in the late 19th century, with isolated communities serviced by infrequent shipping. In the 1890s, when a tender was put out to establish a dependable route between Trondheim and Tromsø, explorer and businessman Richard With and his old steamer the DS Vesteraalen beat out his rivals. Hurtigruten, “the fast route”, was born.

The line’s latest and most sophisticated polar expedition ship, MS Fridtjof Nansen, continues With’s proud legacy. Launched in 2018, it’s the twin ship of the equally impressive MS Roald Amundsen. Well, almost. Nansen’s engineer told me his ship was, well, a bit longer – 2cm longer. “How did that happen?” I asked. No one knows. “It’s a nautical anomaly,” he quipped.

Nansen’s axe-shaped, ice-strengthened hull gives it a P6 polar rating, meaning it can plough through 1.2m-thick first-year sea ice. The battery-hybrid-powered vessel is expected to cut CO2/fuel burn output by 20 per cent – a reduction of some 3000 tonnes of CO2 per year. Hurtigruten aims to be the first cruise line to operate at zero emissions. The Nansen will help it get there.

The bulk of the technological “bling” is below the water line. Nansen’s twin azimuth thrusters allow the propellers to be rotated through any angle, eliminating the need for a rudder. And rather than dropping anchors on vulnerable seabeds, Nansen can employ side thrusters that work with its state-of-the-art GPS software to keep the giant 20,889-tonne ship in position. Hurtigruten was among the first cruise lines to ban single-use plastics, and is pushing for a ban on the use of heavy, dirty fuels in the Arctic. Nansen’s engines run on a diesel fuel that’s as light as what you put in your car.

Zodiac excursions can land you on Arctic beaches, or cruise through the sea ice or past moraines before returning to the ship. Picture: Ted Gatlin (Supplied).

It’s large for a polar ship, carrying up to 530 guests in 265 cabins. Thirteen cabin choices are spread over three classes, from standard Polar Outside cabins without balconies on lower decks to Arctic Superior cabins with private balconies. Expedition Suites measure up to 48sqm, with aft corner suites boasting hot tubs. Adjustable Scandi-inspired easy chairs are standard, interiors are rich in Nordic birch and teak finishes, and minibars are restocked daily.

Of the three restaurants, Aune is where you go each day for breakfast, lunch and dinner, Fredheim is a more casual all-day option (it does wonderful American-style burgers), while Lindstrøm – which requires a booking and a small charge unless you’re in a suite – rotates an eight-day set menu of Norwegian and international dishes in a refined atmosphere.

The pool is heated, so you can take a dip no matter how far the mercury drops. Picture: Clara Tuma (Supplied).

The wellness centre offers a wide range of treatments, along with a sauna and fitness room. The pool is heated, so you can take a dip no matter how far the mercury drops. You’ll also find there’s a 30 per cent discount on spa treatments during days spent in port.

You can enjoy free wi-fi and a library, and there’s no shortage of spaces to get away from it all. I found a lovely niche with a couch in the Explorer Lounge, a cavernous space with floor-to-ceiling windows, a bar, a grand piano and, my favourite, a map desk with paper maps detailing our progress. Afternoon teas and late nights are accompanied by music from the resident pianist, and there isn’t a cocktail the bartenders haven’t heard of. It’s hard to find fault.

On my voyage, a bevy of lecturers ensured sea days were filled with options. On the upper deck, ornithologists identified seabirds, and the Nansen Science Center had get-togethers on everything from the breeding cycle of walruses to why some bird eggs are round and others oval. Zodiac excursions can land you on Arctic beaches, or cruise through the sea ice or past moraines before returning to the ship, which is not just a ship. It’s a sanctuary.

The restaurants are a joy. The food is sourced locally wherever possible. And the service? Superb. Picture: Clara Tuma.

THE RESTAURANTS 9/10

The restaurants are a joy. Aune is where you’ll have most meals, Lindstrøm is the fine dining option, and there’s laid-back, comfy Fredheim with its burgers, Asian delights and brilliant milkshakes. Food is sourced locally wherever possible. And the service? Superb.

LECTURES 9/10

A never-ending parade of all manner of “ologists” – climatologists, glaciologists, marine biologists, ornithologists – means that even on long sea days, you’ve no excuse to be bored. Lectures are also live-streamed to your TV.

Expedition Suites measure up to 48sqm, with aft corner suites boasting hot tubs. Picture: Clara Tuma (Supplied).

OFF-SHIP ACTIVITIES 9/10

Among the extensive range of activities offered, if you like the idea of kayaking in polar waters, make sure you get your name onto the kayaking list pre-trip. It’s heavily dependent upon weather conditions; aim to be in on the first paddle.

CABINS 9/10

There’s a variety of cabin classes, sizes and configurations to suit your budget. Balconies are private and spacious, and the muted Scandinavian palettes inside will provide calm in even the roughest polar seas.

The writer was a guest of Air Canada and Hurtigruten Expeditions. hurtigruten.com

Originally published as We Cruise On… Ms Fridtjof Nansen