Luxury spa vs cheap and cheerful massage in Siem Reap, Cambodia

Affordable massages are one of the things to look forward to in Cambodia, but should you splurge on a top spa or save your pennies?

The temples! The food! The massages!

As I started planning my trip to Siem Reap these three things had me leaping into research mode. And when it came to the massages I had an important decision to make.

I knew that in Cambodia I could treat myself to a pampering in a top luxury spa for a whole lot less than it would be at home. But then again, when there are so many super cheap massages on offer, was it better to save my money?

Or better yet, get both! That definitely sounded like the best plan. Here’s how they compared.

Luxury spa – Khmer Tonics Spa at Shinta Mani Angkor

Khmer Tonics Spa.

As a fan of architect and designer Bill Bensley, I’d been admiring the Shinta Mani Angkor and Bensley Collection Pool Villas from afar, but my travel budget didn’t quite extend to a stay. Booking a spa treatment at the Khmer Tonics Spa was the perfect excuse to take a peek at the property, and as I perused the spa menu at home my eyes were drawn to the Giving Back massage.

Part of a program by the Shinta Mani Foundation, a not for profit organisation to support local communities, the hotel has supported blind villagers to become qualified massage therapists. After being trained in traditional Khmer and modern healing techniques at international standards, they become a part of the Khmer Tonics Spa team, and can be booked with at least 24 hours notice.

It’s believed blind therapist can use their heightened sense of touch to work with your body in the way it needs it most, and I immediately book a 90-minute Giving Back massage for US$65++, which becomes US$78.65 ($116). A 60-minute massage is also available for US$45++.

Welcome drink and towel at Khmer Tonics Spa. Image: Amanda Woods

Upon arrival I feel the bliss that comes with walking into a luxury spa where everything feels and smells heavenly. In this case a peppermint scented heaven.

The Spa Manager San Somalena greets me and I soon discover that she is the one who spent three months training my blind therapist, Loy Louy.

A tray with a lotus flower, cold towel and lemongrass and pandan leaf drink arrives for me to enjoy as I choose between three oils for my treatment, and then I’m led into the treatment room by another therapist, Hun Pov who shows me where I can get changed into a soft robe. There’s a large shower and toilet, a sleek box with disposable underwear, a hairbrush and hair bands, and another to put my jewellery in.  

I then take a seat as Hun starts with a foot ritual that includes a floral foot-bath and salt scrub. Then she asks if there are any areas of concern that I’d like Loy to concentrate on before I’m led to the massage table where a lotus flower looks up at me when I put my head in the table.

It feels strange not to be able to see Loy before he starts the massage. And then I realise how appropriate it is. I have no idea what the other person in the room looks like, and I can only get to know him based on the sound of his voice and touch. His gentle voice tells me about how he is married to a woman who is also blind and they have young children. His touch tells me he is a very talented masseuse who knows exactly what he’s doing.

After floating out of the treatment room I’m invited to sit as another tray, this time with hot tea and a warm towel arrives. And I feel properly pampered, refreshed and oh so happy as I walk out those doors.

Cheap and cheerful - Angkor Seeing Hands

Angkor Seeing Hands. Image: Amanda Woods

If you’re planning more of a budget Siem Reap holiday the good news is you can also support a blind massage therapist with a booking at Angkor Seeing Hands.

Here a 60-minute full body massage is US$8 ($12) and a 90-minute massage is US$12 ($18). It’s a few dollars more for an oil massage but as I’m not sure how private it will be based on the photos I see online, I decide to skip the oil this time.

When I arrive I’m given a basket with a pair of mustard pants and a top to change into and am shown the bathroom where I can get changed. The small space has a shower behind a plastic curtain and a toilet with no toilet paper. While I do carry tissues with me there’s no bin to respect the no flushing sign.

As I’m shown into the treatment room I find three beds, including one that’s occupied by someone mid-treatment. I take a seat on my bed and then realise I haven’t been asked about areas of concern and don’t know if my therapist can speak English. So I pop back out to the reception area to ask them if they can pass a message on.

When the person before me is finished, the therapist turns to my table to let me know he is ready to begin. And I soon discover Mouy has incredibly strong hands and that I am still not very good at asking massage therapists to adjust their pressure.

A treatment room at Angkor Seeing Hands. Picture: Amanda Woods

It’s not his fault. Mouy did ask me if the pressure was good as he worked on my shoulders, where it was perfect. Then it turned out to be more on the ‘will I be covered in bruises?’ side when it came to my arms and legs but rather than simply ask him to change I stifled some whimpers.

Which is to say if you want a really deep strong massage, ask for Mouy when you book. And if you’d like a gentler one, also ask for Mouy and just tell him what you like.

While some of the cheaper massages I’ve had included a spot to sit and a cup of tea afterwards, that wasn’t on offer here. Not that I was bothered. I had my bottle of water and as I paid I looked up and saw my Driver Srey tuk tuk had arrived. It was time to head to my next Siem Reap stop as I ticked massages off my to do list for this time around.

The writer travelled as a guest of APT

Originally published as Luxury spa vs cheap and cheerful massage in Siem Reap, Cambodia