I stayed at 3 of New Zealand’s best luxury lodges, it was incredible

What’s better than one five-star lodge stay? Hopping between three. 

The first few tentative steps atop the white snowy caps of New Zealand’s Southern Alps are not what I expected. 

From a distance, the ancient glaciers appear as a soft blanket of freshly fallen snow blanketing the mountaintops, not the hard, compacted ice we find when our helicopter lands among Fiordland National Park’s highest peaks.

“Edmund Hillary climbed that peak three times in training before he tackled Everest,” our pilot says, pointing at Mount Tutoko. “Sadly, these glaciers are disappearing. I remember seeing those mountain peaks covered in snow, not exposed like that.”

His commentary forces me to put down my camera and take in the precious moment; breathe in the crisp, clean air and marvel at the silence and glaring whiteness stretched out before me.

Mercedes Maguire on a helitour of Fiordland National Park.

We were picked up from the front lawn of Blanket Bay luxury lodge for a helitour of Fiordland National Park. En route, our pilot points out the remote cabin on the edge of Lake Wakatipu where Brad Pitt’s still-in-production film Heart of the Beast recently wrapped filming, and fans of The Lord of the Rings and Mission Impossible: Fallout movies will recognise the scenery of the lake sandwiched between mountains.

The Southern Alps is the final stop in a multi-lodge holiday of New Zealand. New Zealand’s lodges are different to those anywhere else – often in remote, natural settings, they offer the perfect combo of intimate service, amazing food and genuine sustainability. I like to think of this trip, which will include a stay in three of the country’s best luxury lodges, as a bit like an island-hopping adventure with a twist – lodge leaping, perhaps?

The Otahuna Lodge mansion dates back to 1895.

First stop

Otahuna Lodge may be just 30 minutes from Christchurch Airport, but it has getting-away-from-it-all vibes. The seven-room Queen Anne mansion – built in 1895 by politician Sir Heaton Rhodes for his new bride, Jessie – comes into view on approach along the long gravel driveway.

Hall Cannon and Miles Refo took on the then-crumbling pile in 2006 (left derelict after its time as a Christian monastery and a 1960s hippie commune), opening the largest private historic property in New Zealand after a year-long restoration.

My room is a light-drenched space styled in modern Victorian with high ceilings, a wood-burning fireplace and a large recessed picture window overlooking the grounds.

The Botanical Suite at Otahuna Lodge.

It was once the room of the lady of the house, and I’m happy to be its latest occupant, even if it’s just for the night. While the lodge operates as a fine hotel under the Relais & Châteaux banner, it feels more like I’m a guest in a private country home, each room a perfect blend of authentic old and comfortable new. There’s no minibar or television in my room, for example, because they didn’t have them in Jessie’s time. But on the main landing, an old timber sideboard serving as a shared minibar heaves with freshly baked friands and Anzac biscuits, tea, coffee and cold drinks.

The extensive gardens were remodelled into a series of spaces that are like living jewellery boxes – the Dutch garden, rose garden, orchard and a 130-variety fruit and vegetable patch that inspires executive chef Jimmy McIntyre’s seasonal menus. Guests are encouraged to book cooking demonstrations and garden tours for the full experience.

Hall waves us off the next morning, after a country breakfast that included a delicious multigrain no-knead bread made from a 100-year-old recipe in New Zealand’s beloved Edmonds Cookery Book, farm fresh eggs, homemade jams, honey and muesli.

Whare Cottage at Wharekauhau Lodge.

North Island hop

A short plane trip to Wellington and a helicopter ride across the water (or a 90-minute drive) takes us to our second stop, Wharekauhau. If Otahuna Lodge is reminiscent of an old English hunting lodge, Wharekauhau is more like a luxe farmstay, cradled between the Remutaka mountains and Palliser Bay.

The main building is the hub for meals, activity-planning, evening drinks, exercise or just a place to hang out, while the accommodation is away from the lodge in 16 cottage suites and a villa.

Wharekauhau has a dedicated “activity outfitter” and planning your days over cocktails in the formal lounge is all part of the experience. We toured the 1200ha estate on ATV quad bikes (keeping an eye out for movie-director neighbour James Cameron), hand-fed eels, went clay-target shooting and walked the black-sand beach at Palliser Bay – and that was without leaving the estate. A 45-minute drive takes you to the charming town of Martinborough, a great spot for lunch and shopping and the home of Lighthouse Gin, run by New Zealand’s first female head distiller, Rachel Hall.

Refusing to get caught up in the “crazy-flavoured gin trend”, Hall produces a core range of three gins: Original, Navy Strength and Barrel Aged, all made using nine botanicals and spring water from Wharekauhau.

The picturesque Blanket Bay lodge at dusk.

And back south

The luxury lodge trifecta finishes at picture-perfect Blanket Bay, 45 minutes from Queenstown Airport. There are eight rooms in the main lodge plus four chalets and a four-bedroom villa elsewhere on the estate.

The area is a perfect base for adventure activities like horse riding, ziplining, bungee jumping, helifishing, hiking and jetboating. But with a helipad on the grounds, flights over nearby Milford Sound and the glaciers of the Southern Alps are the ultimate local experience.

Our pilot tells us that what appears to be dirt on the glacier tops is actually ash from Australian bushfires. That doesn’t stop me bending to scoop the water, drip-fed from a glacier to a small steam, into my mouth. It’s crisp, perfectly chilled and delicious. And after a week of pure indulgence, it seems like a fitting finale to New Zealand.

The writer was a guest of Relais & Châteaux.

The lodges

Otahuna, 30 minutes from Christchurch Airport. Rooms from $NZ2600 a night for two adults twin share (about $2411). Wharekauhau, 90 minutes from Wellington. Rooms from $2700 a night for two adults twin share (about $2472). Blanket Bay, 40 minutes from Queenstown. Rooms from $NZ2250 a night for two adults twin share (about $2086). 

Originally published as I stayed at 3 of New Zealand’s best luxury lodges, it was incredible