How Italian cuisine has evolved in Australia

Australia’s love affair with Italian food has been growing for over half a century, and through this time we’ve added our own influences.

Richard Ptacnik is the head chef of OTTO Sydney, a restaurant known for its modern Italian fare with firm roots in the classics.

Imagine a morning without the aroma of espresso, midweek dinners without pasta or parmesan, a salad without the glisten of extra virgin olive oil.

What about eating out with no puffy-crusted pizzas or the creamy, boozy perfection of a bowl of tiramisu?

Italian food has made such an impact on the way we eat in Australia that it now seems impossible to believe that it wasn’t always here.

Italian food is a staple in many Australian households, but was virtually unheard of Down-Under before the post-war migration wave. Photo: iStock

But go back 50 or 60 years, before the post-war wave of Italian migrants and their families were truly embraced by the wider community, and many of these foods were regarded with suspicion. The only coffee was instant. That wonderful oil was considered a medicine at best. How times have changed.

While we might consider Italian food as a single cuisine, the truth is it varies markedly between different regions. Even neighbouring villages can have longstanding disputes about the way to make a particular recipe.

Cuisine varies considerably across Italy, with seafood and nightshade vegetables dominating menus in the warmer south, while dairy, pork and polenta are served up north. istock

In general, tomatoes, eggplants, olives and seafood are staples in the warmer south. As the temperature falls and the altitude climbs further to the north, there is more dairy, pork, rice and polenta. Other places will have particular specialties: the Moorish influence in Sicily, for example, or Puglia’s rustic preparations of wild bitter greens.

Modern, multicultural Australia has wrapped our arms around all these influences, along with a little American-style pizzazz (and American-style pizzas), and made them our own. We’ve also added our own interpretations, such as the family favourite spag bol, a distant relative at best to the meat ragu of Bologna and surrounds.

Guy Grossi outside his restaurant Grossi Florentino in Melbourne. The chef is among many others to adapt Italian cooking to Australia’s produce. Picture: Alex Coppel.

Local kitchen legends from Maggie Beer to Stephanie Alexander, Guy Grossi and Stefano Manfredi have shown us how to take ideas from the Mediterranean and adapt them to the fabulous produce available here.

But Italian eating is more than a collection of recipes. It’s a way of living in which very few waking moments are not spent either planning, cooking or eating food. It’s a passion for the freshest and most seasonal ingredients that borders on an obsession. And it is the unique camaraderie that is generated when sitting around a table sharing a feast with family and friends.

WHAT MAKES A PERFECT ITALIAN MEAL?

Richard Ptacnik is the head chef of OTTO Sydney, a restaurant known for its modern Italian fare with firm roots in the classics.

He explained that it wasn’t only the food that is inspired by Italy, but the whole dining experience.

“At the heart of what we do at OTTO is an old-world hospitality approach to dining, delicious modern Italian fare, and a spectacular waterside setting. For me, Italian cuisine is generally characterised by fresh ingredients of the highest quality, technique and simplicity.

Richard Ptacnik, head chef at Otto Sydney. Picture: supplied

“At last count, we’ve served nearly 300,000 dozen Sydney Rock Oysters over the last two decades, and over 8000 litres of Espresso Martinis. Both our Carpaccio and Caprino with truffle honey and pane carasau are firm favourites on our a la carte menu, and the pickled beetroot Ravioli is a mainstay.”

While he is blessed with world-class produce in Sydney, Mr Ptacnik said there was one region in Italy that all foodies should try and experience.

Bologna is the birthplace of one of Italy’s most iconic dishes - ragu pasta, or bolognese.

“If you’re serious about exceptional food, you should visit the Emilia Romagna region which is in the northern part of the country. The area is very well known for Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, balsamic vinegar from Modena and delicious prosciutto from the city of Parma.

“Emilia Romagna is famous for being home to the food capital in Bologna, for red Lambrusco and is also the birthplace of one of the best Italian dishes of all time, the iconic ragù pasta dish.”