Top five culinary blockbusters in Sydney’s own slice of Hollywood

Once Sydney’s film and music production hub, Hollywood Quarter, a Surry Hills, Darlinghurst and Sydney precinct, has the ticket for culinary blockbusters.

NEL’s cured ocean trout. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski

Once Sydney’s film and music production hub, Hollywood Quarter, a Surry Hills, Darlinghurst and Sydney precinct, has the ticket for culinary blockbusters.

BUTTER

As the old saying goes, “If the shoe fits …” and this one does, fitting into the old Hollywood Quarter in Surry Hills. “Butter is more than just Sydney’s palace of fried chicken; it’s a cultural hub where the worlds of hip hop, champagne, sneakers, and great food collide. We pride ourselves on being a community-driven space where street meets luxury,” said executive chef Julian V Cincotta.

First impressions matter, and they start from the footpath. The front window boasts a mosaic of white basketballs and Air Jordans. Inside, the dim lights are punctuated by neon signs and TV screens playing old-school hip-hop videos. “I have always loved this area, ever since Nathan Sassi and I launched Nomad in 2013, which included over two years of experimenting, planning, and prep work before we even opened the venue,” he added. The menu is concise, with their famous buttermilk fried chicken served straight up with sauce, in burgers, and on ramen. As for a highlight, Cincotta explains, “I would probably say our Fried Chicken and Donut – it’s the perfect example of putting two amazing items together to create something that is even greater than the sum of its parts – which is what we are all about”. “We have our annual Fried Chicken ramen on now and running until September. This year, we are showcasing collaborations with six chefs over six months. Upcoming collaborations include Luke Powell, Matt Lindsay, and Nick from Rising Suns. It’s a celebration of culinary creativity and our commitment to evolving our offerings while staying true to our roots.”

6 Hunt St, Surry Hills; buttersydney.com.au

NEL

NEL’s cured ocean trout. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski

NEL’s pumpkin chocolate bonbon. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski

A world of culinary magic awaits at this hatted-basement level restaurant where chef/owner Nelly Robinson and his team formulate “themed” degustation menus with the intrigue and excitement well-suited to the precinct’s old Hollywood heritage. The current, “Once Upon a Time”, is a nod to Disney favourites, but as Head Chef Gavin Ganda explains “, We don’t make food that comes out from the movie (because then you’re copying the movie), but we take inspiration from the general idea of the movie”. Taking a cue from Frozen’s Nordic location, they’ve reinvented the traditional salmon gravlax using Tasmanian pepperberries to change the colour to a more vibrant red/orange. For an animated finish, Gavin says, “Then we finish off the dish with a ”snow” made from cream cheese, dill and lemon juice.“

Snow White’s Germanic origins are evident in A’ Fine Kettle of Fish”, a variation of a classic fish soup but made with a piece of barramundi in a lemon myrtle fish broth topped with a blue coloured chip and seven coloured foam dots. One of the most elegant offerings is saved for dessert: The Glass Slipper (Cinderella). Gavin explains, “It’s a sky-blue bonbon served in a glass slipper – with pumpkin seeds to represent the pumpkin carriage. Yes, someone will invariably do a ”shoey” – pour their drink into the slipper. It’s about having fun, right?“

75 Wentworth Ave, Sydney; nelrestaurant.com.au

POLY

Poly’s porchetta di testa. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski

All the action is behind the red(ish) door at Poly. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski

Many things to many people, Poly, the sister venue of award-winning wood-fire-centric restaurant Ester in Chippendale (Poly-Ester), opened with what Julian Dromgool, co-owner/somm, describes as having “a bit more versatility” in mind.

“We’re a wine and drink-focused restaurant slash wine bar. You can come and have a drink if you want a drink or have a snack and drink. Or you can sit down for a set menu. Flexibility was what we were after when opening Poly”. Flexibility and a continued emphasis on wood-fired cooking and seasonal produce. Head Chef Nathan Brindle says, “Everything comes down to seasonality. There are no new animals or fish in the sea, so you work with what is available at the time. For example, the tuna coming in for winter for the tunas crudo is a function of the season on the menu, likewise with vegetables. You work out a repertoire that works within the premises, then move through it seasonally — taking the classics, perceiving the dish through our frame, and then putting our accent on it”.

Nathan adds that Poly’s suppliers, such as Emilio’s, a boutique holistic butcher Rozelle that provides their porchetta (which when sliced thin resembles a stunning marblelised mosaic). “Working directly with the small suppliers is much more interesting for us. It’s a personal relationship. It’s also highly inspiring because they’re so passionate about what they do. A lot of people who get into these certain things aren’t necessarily looking to make a million dollars. They’re just passionate about what they do, and that’s why we like working with them”.

Poly has one of the largest wine-by-the-glass lists in Sydney, including six wines made specifically for them. Start there, then work your way down the “snack” list. Better yet, settle in for the chef’s menu, which includes AP Bakery fenugreek sourdough, snacks, starters, mains, sides, and dessert ($95pp).

74-76 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills; polysurryhills.com.au

CHIN CHIN

Chin Chin’s favourite dishes and cocktail. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski

Chin Chin’s curry. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski

Chin Chin, in the heritage-listed Griffiths Tea building, is the epitome of a Showbox from the thumping music and a bubblegum pink neon bunny behind a reception desk resembling a DJ console; there’s a bar with booths to the left and a sun-lit restaurant with black marble-top tables to the right. “Chin Chin’s high-energy take on casual Southeast Asian cuisine,” said general manager Giada Penone. “(We are) living by the philosophy that eating and drinking should be fun and sensory.” The menu is created by long-time executive chef Benjamin Cooper and Chin Chin Sydney’s executive chef Matt MacLeod. “Our menu celebrates a rowdy chorus of Southeast Asian flavours, with a spotlight on Thai cuisine, all delivered with a signature Chin Chin twist. There truly is something here for everyone. You need only look to long-time crowd favourites like our kingfish sashimi, the crispy barramundi with green apple salad, and the braised Wagyu beef pad seuw to understand our penchant for creativity and ongoing obsession with putting our stamp on those bold, vibrant flavours.” Running between 12-3pm every Saturday and Sunday, Chin Chin Sydney’s much-loved boozy lunch series, Weekend Sessions, is a spread of classic dishes and new favourites alongside free-flowing drinks, including local brews, wine, and signature cocktails. Enjoy a 90-minute sitting for $89pp or settle in for two hours for $109pp.

– 69 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills; chinch.com.au

Kiln

While there are so many street-level eateries in Surry Hills, remember to gaze upward, where you’ll find places such as Kiln, which sits 18 stories above Foy Lane in the Ace Hotel. Chef Mitch Orr has created a restaurant and bar menu that reflects contemporary Australian fare – high-quality regional produce, premium seafood and culinary influences from Italy, Japan, and Southeast Asia. Plus, Kiln has the bonus of 360-views of urban Sydney and a retractable roof. It is a stunning location for evening drinks or dinner. Kiln offers an express lunch menu ($65pp) on Friday and Saturday.

53 Foy Ln, Sydney; kilnsydney.com.au