Sydney Eat Street: The Heart of Surry Hills festival celebrates the best food in Sydney
It has some of the best food in Sydney and it will be celebrated throughout the month of November at the Heart of Surry Hills festival. Here’s what to look out for.
Eat Street
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Running throughout November, the Heart of Surry Hills Festival celebrates this vibrant and creative precinct, with a nod to its many notable drinking and dining establishments
Take a tour of Sydney’s best eateries with The Sunday Telegraph’s Eat Street. Are you hungry for more inspiration? Follow us on Instagram or Twitter. #SydneyEatStreet
Warike
While everyone else was baking bread, Luis Guzman spent lockdown on his balcony preparing Peruvian dishes first for himself, then for friends and family, and later a pop-up Peruvian restaurant, Warike at Nikkei in Surry Hills.
Luis admits his first event at Nikkei didn’t go as planned, but with their guidance, suggestions, and support, he knew Warike deserved a permanent home, preferably in Surry Hills, where his Peruvian dinners were being well-received by ex-pats and locals.
A year on, and Luis has settled into his Devonshire St location, where he and head chef Hector Chunga have been applauded for their elevated take on Peruvian classics, particularly the 50-hr short beef ribs, charcoal octopus, and seven versions of Peru’s national dish, ceviche (citrus-cured raw fish).
For a taste of Peruvian fare, Warike is offering their signature ceviche, Conchas y Caballa (scallops, blue mackerel, and salmon roe), with a Pisco Sour for $30, Tuesday-Thursday throughout November.
-255 Devonshire St; warikerestaurant.com.au
Shaffa
Blink, and you’ll miss it, as this contemporary Middle Eastern restaurant is a hidden gem located in what is essentially a hole in the wall. Literally.
Once through the nondescript entrance and down a few steps is a cobblestone laneway turned courtyard restaurant situated squarely between the imposing brick and sandstone of a 150-year-old church and a 19th-century Inn.
To the average punter, the narrow laneway with its handful of tables and marble-topped chef’s bar is an efficient use of space, but to Erez Nahum, Shaffa’s owner and head chef, it is a reinterpretation of Tel Aviv’s colourful portside markets filled with mouth-watering smells emanating from the small restaurants and vendors along the way.
A standout on the street food scene is grilled calamari, a popular Israeli seaside classic that Erez has reinterpreted for the Heart of Surry Hills festival using premium Australian whole calamari which is charred to perfection and served with vibrant green tahini and tangy harissa ($26).
It’s also best enjoyed with the limited-edition Lemonarak cocktail, a refreshing mix of arak, Cointreau, mint syrup, and lemon juice ($21).
-80 Albion St, Surry Hills; shaffa.com.au
Brix Distillers
Behind the bar, in the shops, and out at festivals, Surry Hills-based distiller Brix is everything rum should be, which is impressive considering they’ve just turned four.
James Christopher, co-founder of Brix Distillers, said, “We chose to launch in Surry Hills because we wanted to showcase our craft Rum to as many people as possible and with Surry Hills being the creative and culinary heart of Sydney, as well as having a diverse residential population, it was the perfect place to call home”.
As a way of saying thanks, Brix is offering guests two pulled-pork tostadas (made with Brix Gold BBQ sauce, pomegranate molasses, chilli pineapple jam, cucumber, and capsicum) and an “I Heart Surry Hills” cocktail, a refreshing tipple made with Brix White, grapefruit, pineapple, cinnamon syrup, and prosecco for a mere $25.
(Available throughout November 2022).
-350 Bourke St, Surry Hills; brixdistillers.com.au
Mille Vini
Mille Vini is a front-row seat to the world drifting by on one of Sydney’s most popular thoroughfares – Crown St, Surry Hills.
It’s even better when you can sit with a friend and enjoy a glass of wine and a plate of housemade pasta. While the menu showcases Italy’s many culinary regions, Mille Vini’s general manager Ando Randriana keeps the focus local – local growers, local suppliers, and even local wine producers with Italian varieties.
It’s why he’s participating in the Heart of Surry Hills Festival. Ando says, “We wanted to showcase how unique Surry Hills can be. While other suburbs are rising in popularity, Surry Hills is still thriving. It’s still buzzing with great venues and new places open every day. We love it here”.
Mille Vini is offering a tasting plate with three snacks (selection changes daily) and a glass of paired wine for $35.
(Available Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and from 3pm-5pm Fridays and Saturdays throughout November).
397 Crown St; Millevini.com.au
The Trinity
If the walls of this Surry Hills institution could talk, they’d tell the story of a suburb’s highs and (very) lows over two centuries. Fortunately, in 2019, The Trinity was given a long overdue refresh that respected its Irish Heritage and embraced the energy of a busy sports bar, a place to watch the footy with friends, have a cold beer, and enjoy a good meal.
So, this November, to celebrate Surry Hills’ past, present and future, head over to this stalwart of watering holes and grab a pie and a pint, more specifically, a beef & Guinness pie served with mushy peas, mash, and gravy along with a pint of Hawkes Lager for just $30.
505 Crown St; trinitybar.com.au
Masala Theory
Forget those generic takeaway curries; true Indian food is much more than butter chicken with reheated naan.
So, when you’re ready for the real deal, bypass the uptight restaurants and head to Masala Theory for authentic flavours prepared in a way that genuinely represents modern India, such as Hinglish lamb sliders, masala fish and chips, and their Insta-worthy curry bombs.
It’s what owner Yashpal Erda refers to as Neo-Indian, where even the décor – Bollywood meets 70s disco meets old- school hip hop – is the antithesis of tradition.
If you haven’t already, now’s the time to visit as they’ve just launched their spring menu, and throughout November, as part of the Heart of Surry Hills festival, you get a free garlic naan with every order.
545 Crown St, Surry Hills; masalatheory.com
Bourke Street Bakery
Though the queue outside the corner shop is long, there’s not a frown in sight as everyone knows that not only is the bread (and pastries) worth the wait, but despite their well-deserved success and expansion, it remains a neighbourhood bakery that’s as passionate about supporting the community (they founded the first social enterprise bakery, The Bread and Butter Project) as they are about baking their famous sourdough bread.
So, it’s not surprising that co-owner David McGuinness was keen to engage with the Heart of Surry Hills Festival by offering the fan favourite pork & fennel sausage roll, along with a ginger Brulee and drink for $15 throughout November.
So stop by and say hi, or if you’re keen for a look behind the scenes, sign up for a sourdough master class.
633 Bourke St, Surry Hills; Bourkestreetbakery.com.au
Tilly May’s @ The Trinity
When hospitality veterans and brother/sister team Peter and Anna Calligeros took on The Trinity Hotel’s renovation, Peter worked downstairs to resurrect the dingy space into a bustling pub and sports bar, while Anna was upstairs converting the function room into something more feminine but still fun, confident but irreverent.
To Anna, that described Tilly Devine, were she not a legendary Sydney mob boss who lacked social graces but a woman who could go toe-to-toe with punters downstairs.
That fictitious (yet relatively law-abiding) character is Tilly May. As a nod to Miss May and the Heart of Surry Hills Festival, Tilly May’s has created Tilly’s Tipple cocktail.
Made with lime, agave and limited-edition citrus rum from Surry Hills-based distillers, Brix, it’s available throughout November for $20. General Manager Phoebe Paterson says, “It is fresh, fun & that little bit different, which captures the essence of our bespoke upstairs level”.
Level 1, 505 Crown St, Surry Hills; trinitybar.com.au/tilly-mays
Tokyo Bird Toki Highball Bar
Tucked away behind a tiny door on a tiny back alley, Tokyo Bird is probably the worst-kept secret in Surry Hills.
The excitement of finding this Japanese Izakaya may have been part of its original allure, but it’s the delicious Japanese eats, Japanese beers & cocktails, and extensive collection of Japanese whisky that brings people back again and again.
And throughout November, fans have one more reason to return, as part of their Toki Highball Bar activation, they’ll be slinging $16 whisky highballs with complimentary snacks Tuesday-Saturday, 4pm-10pm, plus a live DJ on Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights.
Go for the “classic” concoction made with Suntory Toki whisky, lemon and soda, and a serving of edamame, or Ginger & Lime with crisp, umami noodles.
The Yuzu Honey option includes lotus root chips, and the Spiced Orange is served with puffed rice crackers.
Entry on Belmore Lane Shop 2, 226-228 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills; Tokyobird.com.au
Beast & Co
Part comfort food, part posh. That’s a simplified way of describing the refined, seasonal menu you’ll find at Beast & Co.
While it’s technically a Bohemian restaurant, Head Chef Jozef Kysel approaches the traditionally hearty and heavy dishes with a light touch using the flavours and techniques of more modern European cooking.
Jozef says he gets much of his inspiration from his grandmom’s recipes but reinvents them with local produce that comes from the earth, lands, rivers, and the sea.
For the Heart of Surry Hills festival, you can get their famous beef tartare or beetroot tartare with a glass of wine or beer for $20, Wednesday-Sunday, 5pm-6pm through to the end of November.
Shop 15/425 Bourke St, Surry Hills; beastandco.com.au
Winter warmers to celebrate the season
Everyone is happy to see the sun peeking through the clouds, but winter’s not all bad. Bid farewell to the colder days with one last hurrah of warming fare.
Sniffing out Sydney’s best truffle desserts
Save the best for last. As truffle season comes to a close, be sure to indulge in some sweet treats featuring the annual earthy gem.