Sydney Eat Street: Easter hot cross buns with a creative twist
Bakeries across Sydney have been perfecting their version of the traditional hot cross bun — from adding custard to creating a croissant based dough bun shaped like a cube.
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It’s that time of year again, when the iconic cross-topped buns, baked goods and other clever renditions make an appearance alongside and abundant array of Easter treats.
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Sweet Belem Cake Boutique
It’s a tough ask choosing between the mouth-watering pastries on display at renowned Portuguese bakery Sweet Belem Cake Boutique in Petersham.
At the top of the wish list is owner/chef Jose Silva’s (Guillaume at Bennelong, bibo) famous Portuguese tarts; however, tradition dictates that this time of year, hot cross buns should be considered.
Thankfully, Jose has created a more-ish compromise — a brioche-based bun with a scattering of port-soaked sultanas and custard-based piping, the same custard used inside those scrumptious tarts.
“The port cuts through the sweetness and the custard helps keep in the moisture,” Jose says, noting that the cross on most buns is for aesthetics only, whereas with his hot cross buns, it’s part of the cooking process.
As to their light texture, Jose has one simple piece of advice: “It’s just taking them out at the right time — when they’re nice and fluffy — not doughy but not dry either.”
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While any freshly baked pastry is tough to resist, Jose’s are particularly sinful.
“You don’t even have to butter them, but if you want to indulge yourself, add a little salted butter.”
— 35b New Canterbury Rd, Petersham; sweetbelem.com.au
Black Star Pastry
‘Tis the season for hot cross buns, and like many Australians, Black Star Pastry’s group head pastry chef, Arnaud Vodounou, looks forward to their annual appearance, but it wasn’t always that way.
In fact, before coming to Australia six years ago, via Paris, he’d never had one, much less even heard of them until one fateful day in Melbourne.
“The baker was making these buns and they were delicious. They were really cinnamon-y and spicy,” Arnaud says.
He admits, though, that it was a touch too dense for his liking, so when he came to Black Star Pastry, he made some changes.
“I wanted to make mine lighter but not so light that it’s like sugary and fluffy bread,” he says.
“The way the recipe is constructed is to condense the flavour. The depth of flavour doesn’t necessarily come from the spices; it comes from the fermentation and baking process.”
Besides texture Black Star Pastry’s buns also have a different flavour profile; rather than cinnamon, Arnaud notes frankincense is the first flavour to cross your palette. Oh, and they’re vegan so no one has to miss out.
“Frankincense is very specific; it has a nutty and citrusy flavour. It’s a spiciness that stays on your tongue a bit.”
Besides texture Black Star Pastry’s buns also have a different flavour profile; rather than cinnamon, Arnaud notes frankincense is the first flavour to cross your palette.
“Frankincense is very specific; it has a nutty and citrusy flavour. It’s a spiciness that stays on your tongue a bit.”
Arnaud says even though they’ll be making more than 25,000 hot cross buns from Tuesday, March 28 to Easter Monday, April 18 (18,000 in Sydney, 7000 in Melbourne), they’ll go quickly.
A single bun sells for $4.50, six for $25 and a Baker’s Dozen (13 buns) for $45. The buns are available at all locations or order online for in-store pick-up from March 28.
The Grumpy Baker
On the cusp of celebrating their 20th birthday, The Grumpy Baker has come a long way from the cramped quarters of its first shop on Oxford St, Darlinghurst, in 2002.
To stay at the forefront of Sydney’s baking scene for so long is a testament to co-owner/founder Michael Cthurmer and his family’s consistent production of exemplary baked goods.
He explains much of the bread and cafe items sold at The Grumpy Baker shops are inspired by his Israeli heritage, including the much-loved hot cross buns, which are made with challah dough, traditionally reserved for the braided bread served on the Jewish Shabbat).
Throughout each bun, you’ll find a generous amount of either raisin or chocolate chips and a whole lot of butter, which he explains help the buns retain their moisture and produce one of Sydney’s favourite hot cross buns.
You can pick them up at any of their 10 outlets, including their sizeable new bakery and cafe in Marrickville.
Banksia Bakehouse
Like many of the pastries available at Banksia Bakehouse in the CBD, they may look familiar, but there’s often a twist.
‘The Easter Cube’, as it is called, has a crisp and flaky outer shell with a cinnamon crème patisserie and Sunmuscat sultanas in the centre.
“We wanted to create a special Easter treat using our expertise in croissants and patisserie,” Banksia co-founder Chris Sheldrick says.
“With hot cross buns appearing in supermarkets right after Christmas, we didn’t want to create a traditional-style bun, as we felt customers would be tired of them by the time Easter actually came around.”
Available from April 5, The Easter Cube is a celebration of Aussie producers, specifically the sultanas which hail from Tabletop Grapes in Mildura, Victoria.
“Despite NSW having many grape growing regions, finding a local supplier of high quality, chemical-free sultanas proved a challenge, until we came across Tabletop Grapes’ Gino and Elina Garreffa, who have been growing and drying Australian fruit for almost half a century,” Chris says.
Definitely a win all around.
— T4/225 George St, Sydney; banksia.sydney
The Tea Cosy
For the past six years, Ash Kinshin, owner of The Tea Cosy, has been merging her beloved housemade scones with seasonal favourite, the hot cross bun, to make hot cross scones.
To Ash, it’s a match made in baking heaven.
“The hot cross scones themselves are made with a mix of dry fruits, spices, brown sugar. We make the cross simply by using icing sugar.”
Accompanying the scones is a fig and cinnamon jam with cream and a chai tea. Scone packages can also be ordered for pick-up and Sydney-metro delivery on select days.
— 7 Atherden St, The Rocks; theteacosy.com.au
Bake Bar
Keeping things pure and simple is how head baker Gili Gold has garnered Bake Bar a loyal following.
Fans of the cafe and bakery have come to appreciate the quality that comes with Bake Bar’s use of organic and locally-sourced ingredients, particularly when it comes to Gold’s award-winning traditional hot cross buns.
Drop into one of their three locations for a cuppa and bun or pick-up a sixpack on the way home. ($4.50 each; $20 for six).
— Double Bay, Rose Bay and Randwick; bakebar.com.au
Sonoma Bakery
In a sea of hot X bun bakers, it’s Sonoma Bakery’s “S” that really stands out. Letters aside, baker/founder Andrew Connole has developed a legion of fans for his Not “X” Bun version which starts with a dough that is sweet and spiced with cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves.
This year though, Sonoma Bakery has refined the recipe their fruit version using raisins, cranberries, apricots, and candied oranges, baking them to fluffy perfection, followed with a brush of house-made spice and Sonoma coffee bean steeped syrup making them the best tasting ones yet.
— Various locations; sonoma.com.au
Best Bagel Co
At Best Bagel Co, you can get your fresh bagels uncut and straight off the shelf, stuffed with your choice of sandwich fixings or just toasted with a slather of cream cheese, but come Easter, a special treat has been added to the line-up — hot cross bagel with plain, chocolate, or mocha cream cheese fillings … plus a mini chocolate Easter egg just for fun.
— 49 Parraween St, Cremorne; bestbagel.co
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Flyover Fritterie & Chai Bar
As Sydney emerges from its culinary cocoon, an array of new eateries ranging from top tier to family-friendly locals are slowly beginning to open their doors, and even better are the ones that have actually managed to grow during these tough times, such as Flyover Fritterie & Chai Bar.
Launching their initial venture with a four-item menu along a small CBD laneway, Flyover has brought its popular Indian street food to a more prominent location on Regent St, Redfern.
Those in the know will be glad to see their signature dishes such as seasonal fritters/pakora, traditional Chai brewed with fresh ginger, fresh chutneys all made from scratch, and Khichri bowls (a healthy Indian dish made with rice and lentils) still making an appearance but now you can also get jaffle toasties with fillings including Dosa potato and peanut chutney, cauliflower Korma and Tofu Tikka. So, wander over to Redfern and see all the fuss.
— 80-88 Regent St, Redfern; flyoverfritterie.com.au
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