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Kensington Street in Sydney suburb Chippendale is a true personification of a Sydney Eat Street

Once a gritty side street with dilapidated terraces outside the walls of the old Carlton Brewery in Chippendale has been transformed into a vibrant cobblestoned laneway with a diverse array of bars and restaurants. From fine-dining to Asian street-food, you’ll find it along Kensington St.

Spice Alley at Kensington St, Chippendale, is one of Sydney’s best places to eat with a wide variety of options. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski
Spice Alley at Kensington St, Chippendale, is one of Sydney’s best places to eat with a wide variety of options. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski

The gritty side street with dilapidated terraces outside the walls of the old Carlton Brewery in Chippendale has been transformed into a vibrant cobblestoned laneway with a diverse array of bars and restaurants. From fine-dining to Asian street-food, you’ll find it along Kensington St.

Spice Alley

The fantastic food selection at Spice Alley in Kensington St is something to behold. Puc
The fantastic food selection at Spice Alley in Kensington St is something to behold. Puc

Step away from busy Broadway Rd into Spice Alley, a world away that emulates the fun of the outdoor hawker centres of Singapore. Within the muraled walls and paper lantern lights is a vibrant precinct with a wide range of Asian foods, including Thai, Malaysian, and Singapore, as well as Japanese and popular dishes from Hong Kong to Malaysia. There are nine outlets – with more than 300 dishes and drinks between them, but as Kensington St’s Head of Operations Dan Smith Light notes, “there are no duplicate dishes. We have worked to ensure we have an offering in each outlet that compliments the offering of the others”. Grab the crew, as there is literally something for everyone. At Alex Lee Kitchen, roti combos and Hainanese chicken are prepared by Singaporean chef Alex Lee. Next door, Ginger & Spice offers such dishes as fried French beans and salt and pepper squid. Thai food eatery Bang Luk is your green curries and phad Thai destination. Sedap Malaysia serves up sweet and sour spareribs, nasi goreng topped with a lightly fired egg and sambal pipis. Get your fill of pork buns and steamed and fried dumplings at Hong Kong Diner; Yum Yum offers an array of grilled meats and salads. With so many choices, it’d be wise to go with a group, for a multicultural share-feast.

18-20 Kensington St; spicealley.com.au

Olio

Kensington St’s Olio’s pasta al coccio. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski
Kensington St’s Olio’s pasta al coccio. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski
Kensington St’s Olio’s NZ ocean trout. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski
Kensington St’s Olio’s NZ ocean trout. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski

Award-winning chef Lino Sauro has eaten at the world’s finest restaurants but was often overwhelmed. It made him determined to create an experience at his Sydney restaurant that is something to remember. “They were beautiful,” he said. “I loved the overall environment, the outstanding service and the amazing meal, but afterwards, I can’t remember every detail as it was so complex. It was an amazing experience, but sometimes it’s too much information – I just want to enjoy some nice pasta or a beautiful steak. Something easy to remember, easy to understand”. Olio opened with a strictly Sicilian menu, but Sauro added more seafood from local fisheries and producers, preparing such dishes as New Zealand Ocean Trout served with a salmoreci sauce, Panzanella, and caper leaves, and triple-cooked octopus with sweet potato salad and a spicy saffron sauce. “I prefer to be authentic and traditional because people still love what is familiar,” he added. “But ultimately, pasta is always a main. Everybody knows pasta; sometimes, an amazing spaghetti with tomato sauce and cheese can be the most satisfying.

Level 2, The Old Rum Store, 2-10 Kensington St; olio.kensingtonstreet.com.au

Gin Lane

Gin Lane’s traditional martini. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski
Gin Lane’s traditional martini. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski

Master mixologist, founder of Gin Lane, and an all-round gregarious gentleman, Grant Collins, has been the brains behind the bar for 20 years. That experience has served him well, as Gin Lane makes 8000 cocktails a week with a drinks list that ranges from the classic Gin & Tonic (they sell more than 1000 on a Friday alone) to more theatrical concoctions served in bird cages and fish bowls. “Some of the experiential drinks take a bit of explaining (and training),” Collins said. “But we never lose sight of the classics, where it’s all about, like a good old-fashioned martini. (The bartenders) all want to learn the sparkly cocktails first but, no, no, no, master a classic martini that’s about minus five degrees and then move on to the fun stuff.” Gin Lane, a multi-award-winning bar (and a regular on Sydney and national lists of best gin bars), resides in a midnight-blue heritage-listed terrace house with an inviting outdoor seating area populated with marble cafe tables under twinkling fairy lights. Besides gin, there are plenty of other beverage options and a bar menu with light bites, charcuterie platters, and pizza made fresh at Andiamo just across the laneway.

16 Kensington St; ginlanesydney.com.au

Holy Duck!

Kensington St’s Holy Duck! menu selection. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski
Kensington St’s Holy Duck! menu selection. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski

Inside the expansive, lowlight industrial venue with murals covering exposed brick, hang roast ducks – lots of roast ducks. Holy Duck! is clearly different from the clinical white, Fluro-lit BBQ takeaway shops. The only duck in the window here is a neon halo-adorned little mallard. Holy Duck’s signature is the meaty, crispy duck (not to be confused with Peking duck, noted more for its piping hot crackling skin). Head chef Martin Wong explained the lengthy cooking process, which takes three days to prepare. He said: “First, it’s marinated overnight, then oven steamed for three hours so the meat is moist, then deep fried till skin is crispy.” Crispy Duck (whole, half, or quarter) is delivered to your table brought on a platter with all the fixings to make your little duck pockets. The best way in is to break the crispy skin, pull the meat apart with forks, and place some meat on a steaming hot Mandarin pancake with slivers of cucumber and leek topped with hoisin sauce. For those who prefer not to work for their meal, opt for the roast duck alone or order it already deboned. You’d be quackers (sorry) to pass on the extensive duck menu: Holy Duck! Spring rolls; Holy Duck! Fried rice with snake beans, duck san choi bao, and duck and pork steamed dumplings. As there’s always a goose among the flock, the menu also has duck-free options, including Sichuan spicy chicken, sweet and sour pork, BBQ meats, and vegetarian options.

 Ground Floor, 2-10 Kensington St; holyduck.com.au

Tabé-ru & Nomu Bar

Kensington St’s Nomu Bar serves up terrific Teriyaki wings. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski
Kensington St’s Nomu Bar serves up terrific Teriyaki wings. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski
Kensington St’s Nomu Bar’s selection of cocktails, Teriyaki wings and chicken Katsu curry. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski
Kensington St’s Nomu Bar’s selection of cocktails, Teriyaki wings and chicken Katsu curry. Picture: Jenifer Jagielski

The bustling dining scene of Spice Alley has always included Japanese fare, but it’s been tucked away and nondescript, living in the shadows of its neighbouring Southeast Asian eateries. But with the addition of vibrant murals, curved wooden stools, and a welcoming red arch, the precinct has been given some much-needed attention, made all the better with the Japanese street-food offerings of Tabé-ru. Kevin Vu, the venue’s director, said, “Of course, ramens, curry rice bowls, and sushi are always a win, but the teriyaki wings are really underrated. They’re tossed in a sweet, salty, sticky sauce with meat that falls off the bone.” Batter-fried, sauced and tossed to order. It’s all done fresh and in-house. One of the staff member’s fathers supplied the chicken. “The veggie supplier is one I’ve been using for years.” Sister venue Nomu Bar shares the same menu but offers a more polished Japanese dining destination and cocktail bar. Dine in or grab a seat outside. “The courtyard’s artwork gives it a sense of space – it’s pretty, and it’s like our own little Japanese village,” Vu added.

 40 Kensington St; Spice Alley; nomubar.com.au, spicealley.com.au

Original URL: https://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/lifestyle/food/eat-street/kensington-street-in-sydney-suburb-chippendale-is-a-true-personification-of-a-sydney-eat-street/news-story/6659beb80b7adac55c2dc4df61887227