Doctor Zac Turner: Is your lip balm secretly wrecking your lips?

An Australian doctor has warned that you could be doing more harm than good with this common beauty habit.

Welcome to Ask Doctor Zac, a weekly column from news.com.au. This week, Dr Zac Turner explains how lip balm could be damaging your lips.

QUESTION: Hey Dr Zac, I’m addicted to my lip balm. I apply it at least 10 times a day – before breakfast, after brushing my teeth, before going outside, when I get back indoors, and before bed. If I forget it at home, my whole day is ruined. I’ve heard that using lip balm too often can actually make your lips drier. Have I created a problem for myself? Can you really get addicted to lip balm? – Milly, 28, Perth

ANSWER: Dear Milly, You are absolutely not alone. I used to be a serial balm user myself -there was one in every pocket, every bag, the glove box, the gym locker … I was basically the Lip Smacker version of Mary Poppins.

So, let’s clear something up: lip balm isn’t chemically addictive, but the habit? That’s a whole other story. What you’ve likely developed is a behavioural loop – your lips feel dry, you apply balm, you get instant relief … then your lips feel dry again. And repeat.

Your lips are a bit high-maintenance compared to the rest of your skin. They don’t have oil glands, which means they can’t moisturise themselves. They’re also constantly exposed – to wind, sun, spicy food, aircon, you name it. They rely entirely on external help to stay hydrated.

But here’s the kicker: not all lip balms are helpful. Some create what we call rebound dryness. They soothe for a moment, but then actually dry your lips out more over time. It’s like texting your ex after a few drinks — it feels good for a second, but you always end up regretting it.

A big part of the problem comes down to ingredients. Menthol, camphor and phenol might feel cool and tingly, but they’re actually irritants. Fragrances and flavourings are fun, sure, but they’re also a top cause of allergic reactions. And salicylic acid? Great for a pimple, not so great when it’s exfoliating your lips into oblivion.

Could lip balm be damaging your lips? Picture: iStock

Even petroleum jelly, when used alone, can fall short. It locks in moisture, yes – but if your lips are already dry and flaky, all it’s locking in is … flakiness. You want something that hydrates and protects.

It’s really important to read the ingredients of your lip balm – and immediately switch to these doctor recommended alternatives. Go for balms with ceramides, which help repair your skin barrier. Shea butter, lanolin, beeswax – they’re nourishing and gentle. Glycerin and hyaluronic acid draw moisture into your skin and help keep it there. And yes, lips can burn – so if your balm doesn’t have SPF, it’s basically leaving your lips to roast like contestants on Survivor.

Now, let’s talk about the so-called “lip balm detox.” Some people go cold turkey for 48 hours to break the habit. It can work, especially if your lips aren’t too damaged. That said, if your lips are cracked, bleeding or peeling, ditching balm completely could make things worse. Infection is a real risk, and no one wants to end up explaining that to a chemist on a Monday morning.

Make sure to drink plenty of water. Picture: iStock

Instead, swap to a fragrance-free, ceramide-rich balm and limit use to a few times a day -after meals and before bed is ideal. Drink plenty of water, too. Dehydration often shows up on your lips before anywhere else.

If things still don’t improve, it’s worth checking in with your GP. You could be dealing with a form of cheilitis, a condition that causes inflammation of the lips. It could be allergic, fungal, bacterial – or just the result of licking your lips too often (a surprisingly common habit in winter and during stressful Zoom meetings).

At the end of the day, it’s all about balance. Overusing lip balm can damage your skin barrier and leave you dependent. Underusing it can lead to painful, cracked lips and even sun damage. The goal isn’t to throw your balm in the bin – it’s to use it wisely.

So Milly, keep your balm – but choose one that’s gentle, hydrating and fragrance-free. Use it a couple of times a day. Think of it like your skincare routine, or your love of Married At First Sight – a little can be comforting. Too much? A slippery slope.

Your lips deserve care – not chaos.

Got a question? Email [e-mail]

Follow Dr Zac on Instagram

Dr Zac Turner is a medical practitioner specialising in preventative health and wellness. He has four health/medical degrees – Bachelor of Medicine/Bachelor of Surgery at the University of Sydney, Bachelor of Nursing at Central Queensland University, and Bachelor of Biomedical Science at the University of the Sunshine Coast. He is a registrar for the Australian College of Rural and Remote Medicine, and is completing a PhD in Biomedical Engineering (UNSW). Dr Zac is the medical director for his own holistic wellness medical clinics throughout Australia, Concierge Doctors.

Originally published as Doctor Zac Turner: Is your lip balm secretly wrecking your lips?