Brussels is a taste of Paris, at a fraction of the price

This Belgian city is an excellent, and nearby, alternative to the French capital if you’re travelling on a budget.

It’s a little bit odd the first time you see it – a little boy urinating over a display of brightly coloured Belgian chocolates in a Brussels shopfront window. A few doors further up the street, the scene is repeated, this time over a display of questionably shaped waffles dripping with cream, chocolate and strawberries.

While the visitor may be surprised, the little boy, known as Manneken Pis, is a beloved part of Belgian culture. A bronze statue of him draws crowds to a fountain in the centre of town and his clothes are changed regularly to mark important events like Christmas – yes, that’s right, the residents of Brussels like to dress the cheeky little boy in colourful outfits.

One origin story dates to the 14th century when a little boy is said to have urinated over explosives that were intended to be used against the city, saving Brussels from burning down. The legend stuck and today you see the unlikely depiction throughout the city. This statue is not just a part of the history and culture of Brussels, it’s a sign of the quirky and unique nature of a city that has over the years been occupied by France, Germany, Spain and the Netherlands, resulting in a mishmash of identities and likely the reason everyone is welcome in Brussels.

On the surface, Brussels has the same cobbled laneways and classic squares of neighbouring Paris. The most widely used language in Brussels is French and you will find a similar rich and tasty cuisine here to that across the border. However, accommodation is a fraction of the price of Paris, which is less than 90 minutes away by train, and Singapore Airlines now flies direct to Brussels, so you can see why the city could serve as a pleasant alternative.

But it’s the subtle differences between Brussels and Paris that will make this city get under your skin. Instead of French fries, you will be served Belgian fries, a thicker chip made by twice cooking them at precise temperatures to ensure a pillowy centre and crunchy exterior, and they’re dunked in mayo, not ketchup.

A few doors further up the street, the scene is repeated, this time over a display of waffles dripping with cream, chocolate and strawberries. Picture: iStock.

Belgian waffles are a popular breakfast and café alternative to croissants (note there are two types: fatter, doughier Belgian waffles and lighter, crunchier Liege waffles – I suggest you try them both. More than once).

And while France prides itself on being one of the best wine producers in the world, in Brussels it is beer that reigns supreme. The recently opened Belgian Beer World in the old Stock Exchange building on the Grand-Place, or Grote Markt, boasts 150 beers and the interactive museum will take you through the evolution of beer-making. Top off your visit with a beer at the rooftop bar.

Brussels is a great city to explore on foot. And unlike Paris, it is small enough that you can cover a lot of ground in one day. My suggestion is to set off and just wander – slip into quaint side streets and laneways, poke around in the many shopping galleries and explore the street art, antique shops and concept stores the city is famous for.

Belgian Beer World in the old Stock Exchange building on the Grand-Place boasts 150 beers and an interactive museum. Picture: Supplied.

Like any city, you will find the usual branded hotels, such as Radisson, Hilton, Marriott and Mercure. But hunt out a local establishment to find more of that quirky Brusseleer character inside. The base for my 48-hour stay was Hotel Amigo, tucked in behind the Grand-Place, once the old market square where the guilds of industry were located. From my room I could see the spire atop the Grand-Place’s Cathedral of St Michael and St Gudula, the patron saints of the city, which served as a useful navigation tool for this directionally challenged traveller.

You’ll find two intriguing suites in Hotel Amigo. One is dedicated to Belgium’s famous cartoon journalist, Tintin, and features a drawing director Steven Spielberg made while staying in the suite for the 2011 premiere of his movie The Adventures of Tintin. The other is styled in collaboration with Belgian fashion designer Diane von Furstenberg. These suites are proof the boutique hotel is no cookie-cutter accommodation.

The beating heart of Hotel Amigo, though, is the velvet-swathed Art Deco Bar Magritte, dedicated to Belgium’s celebrated surrealist artist René Magritte. Here you’ll find a cocktail list inspired by his artworks (my favourite was Sheherazade, made with frozen vodka, lemon bitter and rosé Champagne and, yes, it’s as lovely as it sounds). In the pre-dinner evenings an accordion player serenades guests with laid-back jazz tunes.

The velvet-swathed Art Deco Bar Magritte is the beating heart of Hotel Amigo. Picture: Supplied.

It’s difficult to stay away from chocolate in Brussels – and why would you want to? Belgium is said to be home to more chocolate factories than any other country. To get a hands-on experience, book a master class with the Willy Wonka of Brussels, Laurent Gerbaud. 

Working to a philosophy of never adding sugar and using only simple, good-quality ingredients, the artisan chocolatier was named the best in the business in 2021. His 90-minute workshops walk you through his chocolate-making process and include a tasting and a chance to make your own chocolates.

Thankfully, my walk back to Hotel Amigo is downhill; I know I’m close when I spot the Manneken Pis statue a block away. I look up and spot the cathedral spire to ensure I’m walking in the right direction. I’m home.

What is the best way to get to Brussels from Australia?

Singapore Airlines flies to Brussels four times a week.

What is the best place to stay in Brussels?

Hotel Amigo, a Rocco Forte Hotel, Rue de l’Amigo. Brussels. Rooms are priced from €409 (about $677) a night for two adults twin share.

What are the best tours of Brussels?

Laurent Gerbaud, Rue Ravenstein 2D, 1000 Brussels. Chocolate workshops runs for 90 minutes every Saturday from 11.30am. Reservations are mandatory. €35 per adult (about $58) and €15 per child (about $25). 

Belgian Beer World, Boulevard Anspach 80, 1000 Brussels. Tickets are €17 per adult (about $28) and from €8 per child (about $13). Children under 3 are free.

Originally published as Brussels is a taste of Paris, at a fraction of the price