A local's guide to seeing the best of the UK and Ireland
From compelling history to alluring landscapes, there’s always something to discover in the UK and the Emerald Isle.
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While there are many âââjokes about the âââweather in the UK and âââIreland – and, yes, it is âââadvisable to pack a âââbrolly – the changing âââseasons bring their âââown beauty. I adore âââLondon in both the âââsummer and about now – the run-up to Christmas – when the city is at its most magical, plus I love the countryside in spring, when it bursts into glorious colour with carpets of bluebells and seas of swaying daffodils.
From beach strolls to country walks, historic houses to ancient cities, museums and galleries – the incredible thing about Britain, even for someone who lives here, is there is always something to see and a story to discover. Oh, and a pub lunch at the end of it. Here’s my guide to what to see where.
ENGLAND
London
There’s always something to do in London whatever time of year you visit, although the capital is at its most seductive in summer – with its music festivals like BST Hyde Park, outdoor theatre, picnics in the park and people spilling out of pubs onto the pavements – and in winter, before Christmas. Then London city sparkles,with its lavish Christmas light displays, pop-up skating rinks at historic buildings from Somerset House to Hampton Court Palace, and you can enjoy hearty roast dinners in cosy pubs.
Must-sees all year around include Buckingham or Kensington Palace, a West End show, shopping, from the High Street giants of Oxford Street to the designer stores of Bond Street, and a visit to one of the many museums and art galleries, including the V&A, Tate and National Gallery.
Stay: London is heaving with hotels at all price levels, but for five-star style that’s bursting with history, book in to one of its grandest and newest – Raffles London at the OWO, with its giant spa and unbeatable location on Whitehall.
Tip: One of the most enjoyable ways to travel around London is on Thames Clippers’ Uber Boats. Take a trip to Battersea Power Station and sightsee along the way.
Cities
It would be a shame to come to England and only see its capital. Head north to charming Cambridge, easily accessible by train or road, or further north still to Manchester, which, like local band Oasis, is having a moment again. Discover Viking York or go west to Oxford and the Georgian streets of Bath, the town made famous by the ancient Romans and novelist Jane Austen.
Countryside
England is home to 10 national parks, where you can find everything from wild moorland to the famous white cliffs of the south coast, wild ponies of the New Forest and the rolling hills of the Yorkshire Dales.
Top of the list is always the Lake District, so transporting it inspired both poet William Wordsworth and Peter Rabbit’s creator Beatrix Potter, or the National Landscape area of the ridiculously picturesque villages of the Cotswolds.
Coast
The English coast has some spectacular stretches and next year will be joined up into a continuous trail – the King Charles III England Coast Path, the longest in the world. One of the most beautiful and famous sections is The Salt Path, which runs from Somerset, through Devon and Cornwall, to Dorset. Or you can save your legs and drive part of it, on the 113km Atlantic Highway from Barnstaple, North Devon, to Newquay, Cornwall. It takes you through stunning beaches and coves, such as much-Instagrammed Clovelly village in North Devon and food destination Padstow in Cornwall.
SCOTLAND
Edinburgh
Edinburgh, as the second-most-visited city in the UK, needs no introduction. Its sites are world famous, from Edinburgh Castle to the Royal Mile, Arthur’s Seat to the Firth of Forth. The grand, compact city is friendly, fun and full of fabulous museums. But most of all, like neighbour Glasgow, it likes to party and there’s something happening all year, from its Christmas markets, Funfair and illuminated castle in winter and torchlight procession and street party at Hogmanay (New Year’s Eve) to summer’s Edinburgh Festival.
Stay: Check in to the striking new architectural landmark W Hotel, or the charming new hotel 100 Princes Street in what was the Royal Overseas League HQ.
Countryside
You can’t come to Scotland and not see its lochs, the most famous of which are Loch Lomond in the Loch Lomond & The Trossachs National Park north of Glasgow and Loch Ness in the Highlands, near Inverness. The deepest is Loch Morar, near Mallaig, said to be home to Morag, Scotland’s other, lesser-known monster.
Tip: A fabulous way to get around Scotland is on one of its dramatic rail journeys, such as the Jacobite steam train used in the Harry Potter movies, or the luxurious Belmond Royal Scotsman.
Highlands and islands
The Highlands and islands of Scotland are a holiday in themselves and the popular 800km route around the northern Highlands – the North Coast 500 (it’s just over 500 miles) – turns 10 in 2025. The Highlands are also home to the UK’s largest national park – the Cairngorms – where you can ski in winter and walk in summer, plus Balmoral Castle, the royals’ Highland home.
Leave time to head over to the islands for some of the most breathtakingly beautiful beaches in the British Isles, including Skye, Orkney, Arran and Lewis and standout sights such as Fingal’s Cave in Staffa.
WALES
Cardiff
Cute Cardiff is the wonderful capital of Wales and this compact city comes complete with its own historic and pretty castle in the city centre, plus the fairytale Castell Coch nearby. Wander around its Victorian shopping arcades and Cardiff Bay, which stretches around the barrage, to the charming Victorian seaside town of Penarth.
Stay: The city’s landmark hotel is Voco St David’s Cardiff, near Mermaid Quay, which has some of the best views in the city overlooking Cardiff Bay, a destination restaurant and spa.
Castles
Wales has around 600 castles, so it would be rude not to build in a visit to one or two. Favourites are Caerphilly Castle, the largest in Wales; World Heritage Site Caernarfon Castle and “the greatest castle never built,” the unfinished Beaumaris Castle in Anglesey.
Countryside
Wales has three national parks – as well as its beautiful Pembrokeshire Coast, there’s the Brecon Beacons and Eryri (Snowdonia), both of which offer magical landscapes to explore. Whether you walk, or catch the heritage train to the peak of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon), or hike, bike or steam-train your way round the Brecon Beacons, they’re beautiful spots.
Tip: Don’t miss a trip to Hay-on-Wye, on the border of Wales and England. The book town has a famous literary festival in summer, but is a wonderful stop any time of year.
Coast
Wales has some of the most unspoilt beaches in the UK and they’re generally a lot quieter than their Cornish cousins. Head to the beaches of the Glamorgan Heritage Coast, close to Cardiff, in the summer, or further along the coast to the gorgeous Gower Peninsula, Pembrokeshire and St Davids – the smallest and most charming city in the UK – and Anglesey, in North Wales. Special mention also goes to magical Manorbier, with its pretty castle, plus nearby Tenby, and the bonkers-but-unique Portmeirion village in Gwynedd.
IRELAND
Dublin
Delightful Dublin has long been a top destination for those up for the craic, as the saying goes. It’s renowned for its night-life – its Temple Bar bars and pubs are packed with revellers whatever time of year you visit. But there’s plenty to see in the daytime, too, from Dublin Castle to Trinity College Old Library and its 1200-year-old Book of Kells; the National Gallery of Ireland to the Guinness Storehouse.
Stay: Dublin is full of five-star hotels, but one of the grandest is The Merrion, which is made up of four Georgian townhouses and home to a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Countryside
The romantic Irish countryside attracts tourists from all over the world to marvel at its beauty and, in truth, is as pleasant weatherwise in the shoulder seasons as it is in the summer, but with less crowds.
It’s easy to drive around Ireland, so you can cover a lot of ground, but the most popular regions to visit include the Unesco Global Geopark the Cliffs of Moher, in County Clare, and the Ring of Kerry and Dingle Peninsula, all on the Wild Atlantic Way. This 2600km coastal route takes you through the Ireland you’ve always imagined.
Tip: For a really special stay, book into Ballyfin Demesne, a three-key Michelin-rated country house hotel in 250ha of parklands, in Ballyfin, just over an hour’s drive from Dublin.
Northern Ireland
Offering equally lively night-life, Northern Ireland’s capital, Belfast, is full of pubs, bars and restaurants, as well as top attractions such as the award-winning Titanic Belfast. Its coastline is also world famous now, thanks to TV shows like Game of Thrones and movies such as Dungeons and Dragons, with standout sights including Carrickfergus Castle and the dramatic basalt columns or “giant’s footsteps” which make up the Giant’s Causeway in County Antrim.
Travel tips:
Best way to get around the UK
It’s easy to drive around, but British roads can often be congested, so build in extra travel time. The train network is extensive – pre-book at National Rail for reduced fares, or buy a BritRail pass for visitors.
Best way to get around Ireland
The easiest way to travel around is to hire a car. Trains connect major cities, but in more remote areas often buses are the only public transport.
Best way to get around London
Public transport is extensive – choose from the Tube, bus, Overland, DLR and Thames Clippers. Buy a Visitor Oyster Card or use tap on and off and the lowest fare will be calculated for the day.
Originally published as A local's guide to seeing the best of the UK and Ireland