The Mouth: Raising steaks in hunt for prime cut

It was a high steaks game. The Mouth spent time in Sydney’s steakhouse district, taking notes, sampling steaks. He reveals which ones made the cut.

The sirloin at Alfie's steakhouse in Sydney's CBD. Picture: Supplied

It is a good thing this column is anonymous, because otherwise our cardiologist would hit the roof.

Last week this column had the pleasure of spending a lot of time in Sydney’s steakhouse district, chatting and eating, drinking and conspiring.

And, furtively, we took notes all along the way.

The things I do for you people. Shall we begin?

The Classic: Ah, Rockpool Bar and Grill.

The clubhouse you go to when you don’t want to go to a club.

There is no mystery how this place is still kicking along as a power spot:

Steak from Rockpool. Picture: Supplied

They do an excellent steak, especially when someone else is paying, and despite the unceremonious booting of their head chef the service remains warm as a respectful hug.

While we often enjoy off-piste cuts like spinalis a sensible Cape Grim fillet served rare and perfectly rested absolutely hit the spot.

The Stayer: Basically around the corner from Rockpool, Chophouse feels like it has been around so long Lachlan Macquarie’s EA might have booked him in for dinner with Francis Greenway because nowhere else had a table.

Because, you know, it’s fine. It’s perfectly serviceable.

EEye fillet at Chophouse. Picture: Supplied

The menu is not challenging, the steaks are decent, the wine list is familiar.

We enjoyed our grilled prawns.

The Newbie: Basically just over the road from Chophouse is Alfie’s, the latest offering from the Liquid & Larder team (Bistecca, The Gidley). Despite the name, there is no need to ask what it’s all about: steak, specifically sirloin, and a few sides. In and out, no fuss, no muss, and you’re out the door or into the bar within an hour.

We thought the $39 sirloin with green mustard was very good at the price, though the mashed potatoes with rarebit sauce was proof there can be too much of a good thing, and splitting a bottle of Sicilian red at lunch felt startlingly sensible.

Interestingly, they did not hustle us out as per their promise; we hope mentioning this does not get anyone in trouble as it would if we tweeted our thanks to a Qantas crew for skipping the Welcome to Country.

The verdict: Rockpool is still the winner if money is no object, but Alfie’s is good and fun and interesting and is what you get when you aren’t paying off $3 million in fit-out financing. Very different places, but both good times.

Save Chophouse for the out-of-town rellos.