Newtown cafe Tokyo Lamington feeds Sydney’s craving for nostalgia

Former Black Star Pastry chef Eddie Stewart sells over 500 classic lamingtons a day from his Newtown store. Kitchen Confidential can reveal his not-so-secret ingredient.

When it comes to classic Aussie treats, it seems we still can’t get enough of the humble lamington.

Esteemed pastry chef Eddie Stewart owns Tokyo Lamington in Newtown, a cafe which is symbiotically located on Australia Street and is dedicated to the bite-size squared sponge cakes.

Tokyo Lamingtons in Newtown are a big hit after successfully pivoting to deliveries during lockdown. Picture: David Swift

Stewart, the former chef at cult favourite Black Star Pastry, has created a range of flavours including pavlova, finger bun, iced-vovo and caramel slice. However out of the 10 flavours, he says the original flavour, which is filled with raspberry jam and vanilla cream and dipped in chocolate sauce and coated with shredded coconut, is still the most popular and sells over 500 a day.

Tokyo Lamingtons Owner Eddie Stewart with some of the delicious creations. Picture: David Swift

“It’s still my favourite flavour. Every time I eat it reminds me of baking with my grandmother,” he said, adding he shamelessly uses processed jam just like his grandmother. “People are craving nostalgia at the moment.”

Stewart, who had a venue in Tokyo which sold laminations, started his new business venture at the start of the pandemic because he couldn’t return to Japan.

Tokyo Lamington’s happy customers include Kat Ryan, 32, Nick Krajewski, 31 and their dog Mina. Picture: David Swift

It originally was a pop-up in Haymarket, before moving to a shop front in Newtown. They also do lamington deliveries 20km from the store and have stockists at cafes around the city including Ham in Cronulla and Percy Plunkett in Penrith.

“People said we were crazy selling laminations for $7, but it’s a classic Australian dish and we got the timing just right,” he said. “I tend not to do normal things or follow trends.”

Every January, Stewart said there is an increase in attention. “In my humble opinion the pavlova is a Christmas Day dish. Lamingtons are more for January.”