Humble beginnings for South American expat’s Surry Hills Peruvian restaurant

Cooking Peruvian food for his friends started as a hobby for South American expat Luis Guzman, but now his delicious ceviche is available for all of Sydney to try.

What started as a lockdown hobby – cooking Peruvian food for his friends – has turned into a restaurant for South American expat Luis Guzman.

Six weeks ago the Peruvian native, who came to Australia in 2010, opened his first restaurant, Warike, in Surry Hills. Peruvian food is currently taking London and New York by storm, however Sydney has very few options.

It was during lockdown that Guzman, an Operations Manager, started cooking dishes from his homeland and sharing his creations on social media.

“There wasn’t anything to do and I’m not a trained chef, but I always liked cooking and I like Peruvian food. When I came to Australia the only way I could eat Peruvian food is if I cooked it,” he said.

“My friends saw my pictures and wanted to try the food, so, we started to get people together after lockdowns.”

Pictured at new Peruvian restaurant Warike at Surry Hills in Sydney is owner Luis Guzman. Picture: Richard Dobson

These Peruvian dinner parties – complete with music and dancing – started gathering more and more guests. At the request of Guzman’s neighbours, and the suggestion from a cousin who was in hospitality, he moved them to a Sunday pop-up at a restaurant in December 2020.

“The pop up slowly started to build and we were booking out every Sunday. Our guests were returning and started to say, ‘Why don’t you open your own place!’” he said.

Ceviche Clasico, a traditional Peruvian dish. Picture: Richard Dobson

That’s what he did, along with his partner, six weeks ago. Warike means ‘hole in the wall’, and opened on Devonshire Street in Surry Hills.

“Of course we were a bit hesitant, but we thought ‘let’s do it’. I don’t want to be 10 years from now wondering what happened if we didn’t do it,” he said. “I want to showcase and share my culture with Australians.”

Guzman is not in the kitchen this time – that’s being run by fellow Peruvian Hector Chunga, who used to cook for the Peruvian Embassy in Japan.

“He understands my vision and he wants to take Peruvian food to the next level,” Guzman said.

Warike’s Tuna Tiradito. Picture: Richard Dobson

Despite their being barely any Peruvian restaurants in Sydney, the South American country has a rich food scene. One of Lima’s restaurants, Central, is considered among the Top 5 Best Restaurants in the world. The country also has an intriguing migration story, so the food combines the techniques of Spain with influences from Japan and China - and lots of spice. Much like Australia and New Zealand’s debate over the origins of the pavlova, Peru and Chile fight over the origins of the ceviche, with Peru generally considered the winner.

Warike’s Octopus Cause. Picture: Richard Dobson

In terms of drinks, the popular cocktail pisco sour, which contains South American brandy, egg whites, bitters, lime juice and sugar syrup, originated in Lima.

Of the food, Guzman said, “We’ve had a lot of customers returning saying they’ve never tried something had something so unique before.”

Guzman now hopes to bring his brother, who prior to his lockdown hobby was studying cookery, to Australia to work in his kitchen.

“I wasn’t ever planning on coming to Australia. But after school I wasn’t doing anything, and we were from a low income family, so my Mum spoke to my uncle who lived here and one day she said, ‘You’re going to Australia.’

“It was hard in the beginning. I didn’t know anyone. My English wasn’t good and I never dreamt of opening my own restaurant. But things have a way of working out. ”