Behind the scenes at Australian Fashion Week 2024: Winners, grinners and flops
Australian Fashion Week has wrapped up for 2024, and Briana Domjen has all the gossip from behind the scenes — including why one label showed clothes from last year’s collection.
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It was once the place to see stunts and stars, however this year the clothes did the talking.
While there was no major “fashion moment” like Bella Hadid opening for Misha Collection, Alex Perry sending Brazilian supermodel Alessandra Ambrosio down the catwalk, Ten Pieces draining Icebergs’ pool, or Ksubi sending rats down the runway, Australian Fashion Week 2024 proved that local designers are among the best in the world.
But there’s no denying the event needs an overhaul. It needs a shake-up to bring back the sparkle.
With many top designers choosing to show off-site, Carriageworks was quiet and lacking the buzz of previous years. And buzz is great, but it’s expensive.
The big question on everyone’s mind’s is whether the 28-year-old event should be taken away from international events company IMG and given to an Australian not-for-profit like the Australian Fashion Council.
“The money they are getting from the state government needs to be used to create hype,” one insider said.
“We still don’t know how much is given to them. You can have the best designers in the world, but if the event isn’t marketed correctly, it will fail.”
JEWEL IN THE CROWN
Undoubtedly Gabriella Pereira’s Beare Park runway show. Luxury at its finest.
Her looks were fashion-forward, chic, sophisticated, wearable and coveted, to say the least.
There was a lot of buzz surrounding her designs, which were made of silk, wool, cashmere and cotton — and international buyers have taken notice.
Saturday Confidential hears the 29-year-old — who just a year ago was working in private wealth management — was in back-to-back buyers’ meetings all day on Friday.
The only downside to this one was that the seating of guests was chaotic.
But all in all, Beare Park won fashion week.
OPENING SHOW
Marina Afonina can really do no wrong. Her opening show for Albus Lumen, Rebellion, was fresh, youthful, elevated and elegant.
This column loved that sustainably focused Afonina looked back through the brand’s archives for inspiration and sent past season items down the runway, putting her money where her mouth is when it comes to sustainability.
Everything in the collection was upcycled, redone, recoloured, reconstructed and dishevelled.
OUCH!
If you were cast in the Nicol & Ford model, you had to remind yourself that beauty is pain.
Newtown-based couple Katie-Louise and Lilian Nicol-Ford sent their models down the runway in impossibly high platform clog-like shoes, leather bondage masks, “bum cleavage” bias gowns, dominatrix-esque ponytails and a dress made from oysters.
BROUGHT THEIR A GAME
Pip Edwards proved she is an absolute powerhouse.
In what was her first solo collection, Edwards brought high energy and good vibes.
Rumours of a feud with her co-founder Claire Graves (who after 10 years, this year announced her decision to step away from the everyday management of the business but remain on the board) were put to bed, with the designer and mother-of-two sitting front row at Tuesday’s am show to support Edwards.
We also loved Edwards’ hug for her son Justice, who was sitting in the front row.
Edwards’ fresh new look consisted of a neutral palette, sleek silhouettes and an overall more refined aesthetic.
US stylist Dani Michelle, who looks after Kendall Jenner and Hailey Bieber, has already reached out to call in the collection for her girls.
LESSONS LEARNED
The new system IMG brought in for seating, called satellite, was a disaster.
It used to be fashion GPS, which many involved thought was bad, but this system was another level of bad.
BEST CROWD
Bec & Bridge pulled the best crowd. Also special mention to their banging soundtrack!
Front-row guests at Sydney’s Overseas Passenger Terminal in Circular Quay included Edwina McCann, Kate Waterhouse, Tammy Hembrow, Jade Tunchuny, Dom Elissa, Elliot Garnaut, Jessica Pecoraro, Deb Symond O’Neil, Marina Didovich and Alyce Tran.
Apparently many were madly texting designers Bec Cooper and Bridget Yorston asking for one of everything post-show.
Their lust-worthy collection included metallic and tailored pieces, the brand’s trademark form-fitting dresses and shouldered suiting.
TRENDS
Sheer-skirts, high waisted briefs, socks and shoes.
LATE TO THE GAME
Despite social media playing an integral part of fashion week’s all over the globe, whoever was in charge of the Australian Fashion Week page was slow out of the gates.
Despite AFW kicking off at 10am on Monday, at noon nothing had been loaded to the Australian Fashion Week Instagram page. They began posting at 12.41pm.
THE STYLIST’S CHOICE
Many of the local stylists we spoke to branded Mariam Seddiq as the standout performer.
“She truly is an incredible designer,” Stylist Natalia De Martin said.
“I am a major fan of the way she combines fashion with art.
“She is edgy and cool and doesn’t follow your typical fashion trends.
“She really pushes boundaries.”
BEST OFF-SITE VENUE
Speed showcased their collection at the Sydney Aquarium which was epic. And many agreed.
“The feeling of being underwater with the light bouncing off the clothing created such a beautiful ambience and really complimented the collection,” stylist De Martin said.
WEIRD, WONDERFUL AND WACKY STREET STYLE
Quirky, costume-y and over-the-top looks were on display on the streets of Carriageworks, Eveleigh this AFW.
When it comes to Imogen Anthony, there was a lot to unpack.
One look, branded “Blood and Guts” and created by Lemaine, featured splatters of bright red resin stuck to sheer fabric that revealed her assets.
Another one of her quirky looks resembled grass and moss.
NICE TOUCH
Celebrated stylist Elliot Garnaut’s mum Kath walked in the Matsini show. A nod to real, inspirational modern women.
“Mum has no modelling experience and has never walked in a fashion show and was so humbled when asked to walk by brand founder Kudrat Makkar.
“Kudrat said that Mum was the embodiment of the Mastani woman,” Elliot said.
UNSUNG HEROES
While there’s a plethora of wannabes peacocking out the front of the venue and an endless number of reality TV cast members making the most of their 15 minutes of fame, there’s a countless number of people working behind the scenes.
The producers, hair stylists, make-up artists and brand consultants are rarely acknowledged. And while the designers might create the threads, it’s the stylists who turn these clothes into looks.
Special mention to Karla Clarke, who styled more than five shows this year, and new kid on the block, Brand Partner — headed up by Milli Grigg and Mikey Gould — which was the middle man in creating meaningful collaborations this year between fashion houses and brands.
MAJOR FAUX PAS
Apparently their first pick was Pamela Anderson, however that fell through for naming right sponsor, Pandora.
Instead, they flew in Barbie star and “Pandora friend of the brand” Hari Nef (for a rumoured $100,000 plus flights and accomm), who was anything but remarkable.
Saturday Confidential overheard her trying to get out of wearing one of their necklaces, as she wanted her neck bare.
She failed to post one image of the Pandora event at which she was a special guest, and doesn’t even follow the brand.
Wrong choice!
OUT OF THIS WORLD
Nineteen-year-old brand Romance Was Born brought the colour and theatrics to what can often be a runway full of white, grey and black.
Never ones to succumb to commercial pressure, there was nothing mundane or predictable about what design duo Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales sent down the runway.
The set design, which consisted of three huge moons suspended in the middle of the runway, was theatrical and epic.
FAIL
The AMEX lounge. This lounge has previously been the place all the fun stuff happens. Barely anyone was allowed in and if you were, there was zero buzz.
SPECIAL MENTION
Goes to PR guru Ana Piteira’s brand Blanca, whose dynamic and playful threads were a hit for many this week.
Jason Coates, who is considered a leader in launching brands into the Japanese and Asian markets, reckons Blanca has what it takes to make it overseas.
“I loved the Blanca show,” he said. “It has a really nice wearability to it.
“It wasn’t too edgy, but wasn’t boring either.
“There were some great references for an older generation as well as the younger ones. It will really resonate with a wide audience.”
BOLD MOVE
Madre Natura showed clothes from last year’s collection after explaining that it wasn’t going to launch a new collection until all of the clothes from its previous had been sold.
MOST INSPIRING MOMENT
An audience of editors, stylists and influencers at NSW TAFE’s Fashion Design Studio graduate runway show were joined by some of the school’s most notable alumni, including Akira Isogawa, Bianca Spender and Nicky Zimmermann.
This runway was proof the future is bright for Australian fashion.
Got a news tip? Email weekendtele@news.com.au
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