Cafe review: ‘For the love of god, use olive oil’

There are some things that should not be cooked in coconut oil, because no sauteed spinach should make a breakfast dish taste like a pina colada. It’s disgusting and detracts from what is often great cooking. This is the case at this Gold Coast cafe.

To the marketing guru in the coconut industry who convinced the general populace that the fruit’s oil considered cancerous just over a decade ago should now be used to make everything from protein balls and French toast to shepherd’s pies and quiches needs to be both awarded for their genius and smacked over the head with said fruit.

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You see, there are just some things that should not be cooked in coconut oil. Why? Because no one’s sauteed spinach on their breakfast at 7am should taste like a pina colada. It’s disgusting and it detracts from what is often great cooking.

This is the case at MLK in Broadbeach.

The relaxed cafe underneath the Hi-Ho Apartments recently underwent a makeover, toning down its multi-coloured interiors to create a clean, fresh and modern look featuring a breezy covered courtyard out the front with white chairs and tables opposite timber bar tables and stools. Meanwhile inside, the modern country-style furniture and artwork gives a slight elegant, feminine vibe.

Fritters at Broadbeach cafe MLK. Picture: Russell Shakespeare

The menu is broken down into “breaky” options, with favourites such as a bacon and egg roll and eggs Benedict, and more modern dishes like pumpkin tofu scramble and pancakes with coconut yoghurt and chocolate soil; then “brunchy” dishes, including karaage chicken tacos and a sushi bowl. There are also three dedicated kids meals all for $12 — a must in such a popular tourist spot.

But back to that coconut sauteed spinach. It’s part of the MLK fritters ($18) and it makes me want to throw it against the wall like a toddler having a feeding tantrum because it ruins what is otherwise a bloody terrific dish.

Among the landside of flaccid, pale and flabby fritters I’m often exposed to at breakfast, the cauliflower, chickpea and kale version at MLK are a triumph. Crispy to the point of crunchy, they are brilliant texturally; met by a chunky tomato sauce for acid, squidgy haloumi for salt and runny-yolked eggs for both richness and a touch of lubrication. Cook that spinach in olive oil and it would be a faultless dish.

Inside Broadbeach cafe MLK. Picture: Russell Shakespeare

The salmon bowl ($20) suffers a similar fate, with the mix of snow peas, kale and spinach at its base also sauteed (for a little too long this time) in coconut oil. The greens are then tossed between red quinoa, chunks of feta and crowned with a fillet of Atlantic salmon, which needs about a minute less in the pan.

Despite what the aforementioned marketing genius brainwashed the world into thinking, coconut oil isn’t better for us. In fact, it contains 13 times the saturated fat as olive oil, and far less of the good fats, so for the love of god, please just use olive oil.

Thankfully there are no such complaints about the coffee, with the cafe using Byron Bay beans to make super smooth, mild brews. Though you’ll want to ask for a double shot if you like your coffee strong. There’s also juices, milkshakes and specialty shakes such as a cinnamon doughnut number and teas; while beer and wine are also in play.

Service may be slightly inattentive at times, but it is warm and friendly with a genuine desire to be helpful.

MLK is a sweet, little cafe I’d happily go back to, I’d just ask them to hold the greens.

MLK

2 Queensland Ave, Broadbeach

5538 8262

mylittlekitchenbroadbeach.com.au

Open daily from 6am

VERDICT

Food 7

Service 7

Ambience 7

Value 9