Meet Miss Mee: Inside new restaurant that erased Hellenika
From the team behind Justin Lane Establishment comes this new Thai eatery at Nobby Beach. But is it any good? Our reviewer’s verdict
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PURPLE neons cast vibrant shadows across the floor, cartoonish black and white artwork gives a quirky touch to walls and an old tuktuk is parked at the back of the bar. If the owners of the recently opened Miss Mee restaurant at Nobby Beach were trying to erase the final remnants of Greek eatery Hellenika, they’ve certainly done it.
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For a decade the double-storey space along the Gold Coast Highway was home to Simon Gloftis’s awarded and beloved Grecian taverna.
Then in November last year the restaurant was sold to the team behind Burleigh favourite Justin Lane Establishment.
The guys moved in and opened Loki, promising a Mediterranean experience that would have diners asking, “Hellenika who?”.
But as quickly as an English tourist’s skin burns on a beach in Mykonos, the new owners shut down the venue and decided a change of concept was needed.
And so comes Miss Mee – a distinctly Thai bar and restaurant promising all the fun and vibrancy of a Koh Phangan full moon party without the illicit drugs.
It’s a share-style menu of all the Asian nation’s favourites grouped into small and big plates, rice and noodle dishes, and salads and greens. Think the ubiquitous pad Thai, satay chicken, papaya salad, salt and pepper squid, yellow curry and whole deep-fried fish. There’s also a variety of banquet options starting at $49 per person for five courses.
Our endearing and well-versed young waitress warns us a tolerance for spice is required for some of the dishes but judging by our choices that tolerance is only necessary if you’re the type to find butter chicken hot.
Ma hor ($14), for example, is more sugar than spice with bite-sized triangles of fresh pineapple holding spoonfuls of caramelised minced pork and chicken so saccharine it almost sends it into dessert territory. While the roast duck salad ($28) is more acerbic than comedian Judith Lucy with it’s razor sharp black vinegar dressing.
Crying tiger beef ($16), which has spent a little too long on the grill rendering it tough, steps up the heat slightly with a dried chilli dressing but, don’t worry, you certainly won’t be shedding any tears from the peppers here.
A prawn green curry ($32) appeals but on the waitress’s recommendation we go with the popular massaman ($32). The deep terracotta-hued gravy swirled with coconut milk suspends chunks of fatty beef brisket. It’s a solid enough version of the common curry without being remarkable. The same could be said of the signature Pad Miss Mee ($26), a take on the much-loved pad see ew.
The dish of the day surprisingly goes to a dessert of candied coconut dumplings ($12) with four pandan-hued teardrops floating in a sweet salty coconut cream with shredded toasted coconut on top for crunch.
With Miss Mee just as much a bar as a restaurant, thanks to the former rooftop space which has now been closed in with bifolds and a retractable roof, there’s a generous wine list in play. Focusing mostly on quality or well-known Australian labels with a few European and New Zealand bottles in the mix, it also includes a decent selection by the glass. There’s also a collection of Asian and local beers on offer, plus signature cocktails harnessing the flavours of Thailand, like coconut, lychee and even chilli.
Honestly, you could find better Thai food at a quality suburban takeaway, but Miss Mee is designed to be about more than just the food, it’s about the vibe, those picturesque views towards the Gold Coast hinterland and warm service that’s determined to make your experience as smooth as possible.
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MISS MEE
2235 Gold Coast Hwy, Nobby Beach
5571 8009
Open Wed-Thu 5pm-late, Fri-Sun noon-late
Must try
Smoked candied coconut dumplings
VERDICT – OUT OF 5
Food 2.5
Service 4
Ambience 4
Value 3.5
OVERALL 3