Review: Mica Brasserie in Newstead scores 10/10 for service
Offering fine dining service that scores a perfect 10, this new cafe has upped the ante on breakfast in the River City, writes Anooska Tucker-Evans.
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Waiters in button-up shirts and vests, linen napkins on the tables and service akin to a fine dining restaurant, Mica Brasserie in Newstead is changing the Brisbane breakfast game.
Perched on the edge of Breakfast Creek at the base of the flashy Mercedes-Benz Brisbane showroom, the new cafe-cum-patisserie is like a slice of the French Riviera.
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The extravagant, brass and marble-trimmed fit-out sure to be worth more than the median Queensland house price spills outside to a covered terrace looking straight down the Brisbane River towards Hamilton, while white timber lawn chairs stretch alongside the water below.
Although some umbrellas are going to be needed for shade come summer, on a sunny winter’s day, it’s one of the best spots in the city.
The spectacular venue is the work of Shannon and Clare Kellam, behind local fine dining institution Montrachet, and the couple has brought the ethos and principles of their French restaurant to Mica, creating an elevated breakfast and brunch experience not seen in Queensland before.
All that elegance and refined service is factored into the price though, with the five main breakfast dishes $25 each, while “shared appetisers” such as housemade crumpets and sheep’s milk yoghurt with granola are $17 each.
Terrific value can be found, however, in a special tasting menu for $55 per person, featuring four courses, plus juice, tea or coffee and a basket of pastries.
Coffee is very well made and is a great accompaniment to one of the bakery’s freshly made almond croissants from their wide selection of pastries, breads, pies and cakes. But at lunchtime, rose seems the perfect choice from the concise but quality wine list that favours popular styles.
It pairs beautifully with the citrus-cured Ora king salmon ($25), the premium New Zealand fish sliced thinly and crowned with a runny poached egg, whipped fromage blanc and dill and olive oil, ready to be scooped up by the paired fennel, potato and sumac sourdough.
While vegans are taken care of with a cauliflower dish ($25), the veg subtly smoked with iron bark before hitting the pan for caramelisation contrasted by acidy pickled mushroom.
And despite it being listed as an “appetiser” the roasted pineapple ($17) makes for a light and fresh dessert thanks to a shortbread like macadamia crumble and coconut water sorbet.
This is not stuff-your-face-until-you-want-to-explode food, this is delicate and refined fare in keeping with the rest of the elevated experience. And it’s a winner.
MICA BRASSERIE
The Promenade, 194 Breakfast Creek Rd, Newstead
3559 2670
Open Wed-Thu 7am-1pm, Fri-Sun 7am-2pm (cafe opening hours, patisserie is open seven days)
VERDICT
Food 7.5
Service 10
Ambience 9
Value 8
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INDUSTRY BEANS
18 Proe St, Newstead
3180 1190
