Bruno’s BNE Cafe Review: Service with the enthusiasm of a teenager at a Wiggles concert

The food is good at this lovely, chilled space on Brisbane’s southside, but the only downside is the service. Our waitress disappears after we ask for more time, walking off down the street and forgetting to take our order – and from there it just gets worse.

ARE VEGIES still healthy if they come entwined in batter and deep-fried?

Probably not. But just as we all justify the extra glass of wine or piece of dark chocolate as being “healthy” because they boast antioxidants, I’ll pretend that the pakoras at Tarragindi’s Bruno’s BNE, in Brisbane’s south, are good for me. They certainly taste bloody good, anyway.

The Indian-inspired dish is on the new menu at the popular cafe, which just celebrated its third birthday.

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Housed in an old Queenslander, the main dining room is a little basic and looks like it could do with a good scrub in places, but it is relaxed and comfortable with long, timber tables designed for big groups or those wanting to simply spread out, while out the back is a veranda facing out over a sprawling park with bar tables and smaller tables for two.

Interior Bruno's Bne in Tarragindi. Picture: Mark Cranitch

It’s a lovely, chilled space and the pick of the two areas, just beware of the flies that are stickier than a dirty nightclub floor at 3am.

That pakora dish ($18) features three of the fried snacks cooked until crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, alongside pickled red cabbage for acid balance and freshness, coconut raita for coolness in the mouth and two poached eggs, which could do with 30-45 seconds less in the water to ensure their yolks run, not crawl, from the centre.

Also on the menu are favourites like avo on toast, eggs your way, a vegetarian-friendly harvest bowl and some mighty fine looking, oversized chicken burgers, which the couple at the table next to us are defeated by.

The pakora dish features three of the fried snacks cooked until crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside, alongside pickled red cabbage for acid balance and freshness. Picture: Mark Cranitch

The Bruno’s Benny has been a hit since the venue by Bruno Silva Franca opened, and with seemingly good reason. Available with bacon or haloumi for $17 or smoked salmon for $20, it features two poached eggs (again, ours are not quite runny) on sourdough with wilted spinach and a well-executed hollandaise sauce with just the right amount of acid.

With Silva Franca a Brazilian-born barista, coffee is understandably the star here. There are three brands on pour: Sydney’s Single Origin, Melbourne’s Dukes, and Padre Coffee from Victoria and Noosa, which provides Bruno’s house blend, served smooth and chocolatey with milk in a cappuccino or latte ($4.20 cup/$4.80 mug).

Potato and cheese hash with poached eggs, chipotle aioli and grilled chorizo

Or for a bit of nostalgia, order one of the old school milkshakes ($6.80), which arrive in a tall metal tumbler, in flavours such as chocolate, strawberry and a delicious vanilla malt. There are also three smoothies ($8.20) – banana and cinnamon, mixed berry and acai – and quality, freshly made apple or orange juice ($7.50).

Lunch time also sees a liquor licence kick in, with a basic offering of two whites, two reds, two proseccos and a handful of beers and ciders.

The only downside is the service. Our young waitress, while initially enthusiastic, disappears completely after we ask for one more minute to make our decisions, with my friend spotting her walking off down the street and forgetting to take our order.

Ricotta hot cakes with berries, mascarpone, maple syrup and walnut crumb.

Silva Franca comes across as less than impressed at having to step in, writing down our order with all the enthusiasm of a teenage boy at a Wiggles concert and bordering on rude.

The same level of disinterest and surliness continues when we go to pay the bill. But, who knows, perhaps the spiritless, aloof temperament is what he’s going for as part of his cool, hipster barista schtick. I hope not, though, as you certainly win more bees – and customers – with honey than vinegar.

Bruno's Bne 212 Cracknell Rd, Tarragindi.