In the House Collective hotels across Asia, it’s The Upper House in Hong Kong – named because it starts on the 38th floor of a city high rise – which has remained in the spotlight since it opened in 2009. And as experienced throughout this two day stay, for very good reason.

The lowdown

Designed by Hong Kong architect Andre Fu, The Upper House has numerous accolades to its credit as the best hotel in the city and in Asia. The 117 room establishment in the Admiralty district was this year rated number five on the World’s 50 Best Hotels list.

All of which sets a high bar to live up to for the property originally built as serviced apartments and transformed five years ago into a five-star boutique hotel. At the end of Covid, it went through another refurbishment. Luxury aside, the central location is a winner as it sits above Pacific Place, one of the city’s premier malls with direct links to Admiralty MTR station, and behind is Hong Kong Park and a criss-cross of hiking trails.

The vibe

The street entrance is through the sculptural ‘Stone Curtains’ façade and then it’s up the escalators through a dimly lit tunnel, almost as if to signify the regular world is being left behind and what’s ahead will be very different. Which indeed it is. Stepping out of the elevators at the 38th floor, the sheer walls of the 40-metre high atrium is showered in natural light from the oversized roof skylight above. 

The corridors of the hotel’s 11 floors run off the atrium and featured throughout is an eclectic mixture of art and grand designs done out in a high style of crisp, clean styling. The hotel even has a signature fragrance - the soothing scent of ginger verbena permeates the air. One design reviewer summed it all up with this over-the-top description -  “The Upper House is not simply a hotel – it’s an experience in understated residential calmness!”

The rooms

In a city notorious for small hotel rooms, this space shatters that reputation. I’m on the 42 floor in a Studio 80 room which, true to the building’s origins, feels more like a luxury apartment at 80 metres square. The plush design has material finishes using bamboo, limestone and wool to set the simple but opulent mood with the focus on the expansive views from the angled glass windows looking at city towers in the foreground and Victoria Harbour in the distance.

Most notable is the bathroom – it’s enormous and possibly bigger than the bedroom and living space. It’s completed by sandstone sculptures and a huge limestone tub, which I later make the most of while watching the news on the giant screen. It’s the window bench seats in the living area which offer the best vistas. Returning after a meeting, I discover a bowl of chocolates and a tray of berries waiting and as I sit down on the bench and begin to nibble, I decide this is my favourite spot in the room.

Food and drink

Salistera on the 49th floor is the main dining and bar area, taking up the entire floor with a range of spaces – from the open dining area through to cosy corners for quieter catch ups – all of which have panoramic views. The Mediterranean-themed restaurant is where breakfast, lunch and dinner is served. The breakfast scrambled eggs are so light, the spinach ravioli a lunch treat, and the salt-baked sea bass finishes the day to perfection. Cocktails are also served in the bar, with the premium blend House Gin the signature sip. Simple fare but equally good can be found on the lower floors at the Continental Café and The Tea Room. 

Luxury touches

There’s neither a pool nor a spa, but the hotel instead offers a Wellness Residence with yoga and exercises classes in the outside lawn area, as well as chiropractic and dietician services. There’s also a range of in-room treatments like massages, facials and hair styling, and a running club to explore the nearby leafy trails. 

One more thing

While the views of the world-famous harbour make the front rooms in high demand, it’s the back looking over the city and mountains that are said to have the best feng shui. 

What's hot

Location, location, location. The views are gorgeous, the Pacific Place mall offers just about everything and an MRT station means getting anywhere is a short ride away. Throughout the Admiralty area are historic buildings and sites, and plenty of greenery.

What's not

It seems so churlish to pick about when all the notes being struck were perfect, but I did miss a swimming pool. After a long walk through the city on a humid afternoon, all I wanted was a quick dip. 

The verdict: 9.5/10

There is an air of easy understatement throughout, and while this hotel is decidedly high-end, it feels like a more personal stay due to all the space of the room. I think I’ve just been spoiled for all my future stays in Hong Kong hotels that are anywhere but here. 

Rates start from $1000 AUD a night. 

The writer was a guest of The Upper House.