West End Vegan cafe adds meat to menu

The new owners of a vegan cafe have been forced to include meat on the menu after customers boycotted the venue due to a lack of carnivorous options.

What do you do when you buy a vegan cafe only to have people tell you they won’t eat there because it’s plant-based?

You add meat, of course.

This was the situation Stean Kelly found himself in late last year after taking over Grown in Brisbane’s inner south. Despite being in the vegan heartland of West End, the cafe, which originally opened in 2017, was struggling to attract patrons with its meat-free menu.

Locals demanded real dairy in their coffee, bacon with eggs and beef not veg in their burgers.

Grown cafe in West End. Picture: Richard Walker

So Kelly and chef Lachlan Mouatt got to work introducing animal products into the line-up.

At first they kept 65 per cent of the offering plant-based to cater to the original vegan customers, but within a few months, the meat eaters had their way and now that ratio has reversed, with just a handful of non-carnivorous dishes such as forest mushrooms on toast with truffle dressing, and smashed avo with desert lime gel.

Regardless of whether there’s meat in the dishes or not, the food here pushes beyond your classic cafe fare by embracing myriad native ingredients such as bush pepper mayo on a fried chicken burger, wattleseed balsamic in a baby beet salad, or even saltbush potato hash with the big breakfast.

Cured salmon and avocado salad at Grown, West End. Picture: Richard Walker

Diners order at the counter after being seated by staff in the raw and organic indoor/outdoor space where recycled particle board meets forest green tiles and an abundance of hanging and potted plants to reinforce the “grown” vibe.

Kelly is largely front of house ensuring diners feel welcomed and at ease, and are, most importantly, caffeinated with strong St Ali brews, or lubricated with a collection of cocktails, wine, beer and spirits (available after 10am). There are milkshakes, fresh juices, smoothies and house-made sodas, too, plus a pineapple, finger lime and coconut milk slushy that’s perfect for a Queensland summer. The eggs benedict has become quite the favourite since the menu embraced animal products, with two poached eggs, pepper berry hollandaise, onion myrtle jam and sourdough coming with your choice of fried chicken, bacon, avocado or smoked salmon ($25-$26).

Eggs Benedict with bacon. Picture: Richard Walker

The chicken option could easily pass for something from Colonel Sanders’ kitchen, with the poultry’s coating generously spiced and crispy, and benefiting from a slide through the zesty hollandaise.

Meanwhile, the brunch enchilada ($26) actually takes the form of two tacos and is like a Mexican-Italian-fusion with the “pulled beef” more akin to a ragu thanks to a rich tomato sauce and the addition of pecorino. Although it’s far from a traditional enchilada, it certainly makes for a hearty start to the day.

And to end the day, Grown has just started opening for dinner from Thursdays through to Saturdays. The offering leans into the idea of European bistro fare but harnessing local and native ingredients, such as barramundi with a finger lime beurre blanc or eye fillet with truffle mushroom duxelles; all paired with Australian wines, beers and spirits.

Grown is a cafe built on passion, and with meat now on the menu, it’s found its place with locals and visitors.

GROWN

Shop G03/21 Buchanan St, West End

0452 198 549

grownbne.com

Verdict – Scores out of 5

Food 3.5

Service 4.5

Ambience 3

Value 4

Overall 3.5