First review of revamped James St institution Gerard’s

This Fortitude Valley restaurant favourite has reopened after a dramatic makeover, with rammed earth walls, a new chef and an enticing menu.

Buckwheat and candied beets snack at Gerard’s, Fortitude Valley. Picture: David Kelly

Johnny Moubarak says he thought hospitality was hard, until he tried to renovate his top Brisbane restaurant Gerard’s Bistro in Fortitude Valley’s trendy James St last year.

The revamp of the Middle Eastern eatery, which has long been considered one of Queensland’s best, not only went over deadline – finally opening in November – but over budget with missing trades, soaring building costs and a host of other challenges the restaurateur would rather forget. But from a diner’s point of view, the end result is, unquestionably, worth it.

The central bar at Gerard's, Fortitude Valley. Picture: David Kelly

Gone are the Moroccan tiles, white bricks and run of dark curtains, and in their place stands a dramatically bold design by Brisbane architect-of-the-moment Jared Webb.

Inspired by the historic buildings of Lebanon, the room is bordered by rammed earth walls made from two truckloads of dirt compacted on site. They wrap around diners like a crypt, with slots allowing the sunlight to gently filter through; while cavernous ceilings and channelled lighting enforce the vault-like vibe.

Diners are packed tightly down one end of the room, with the bar in the centre, the open kitchen at the opposite end, and two private dining rooms hidden from sight. In a city where many restaurant designs are beginning to blur into one, this brave and bold construction excites.

Not only is the look new, but so is the name, dropping the “bistro” to become simply Gerard’s. There’s also a new chef on board.

Looking into the open kitchen at Gerard's. Picture: David Kelly

With former head chef Adam Wolfers departing for health reasons, culinary whiz Jimmy Richardson, who previously worked at the bistro under Wolfers, has taken over with a menu rooted in classic flavours of the Levantine region, but evolved for the here and now.

Reading through the single page of share-style dishes, you might need the charming, knowledgeable waitstaff to help decipher some of the items which go by their traditional names.

The awamat, safarjaliyeh, Urfa biber. Picture: David Kelly

Take something called “awamat, safarjaliyeh, Urfa biber” ($10 each) which turn out to be mini black lentil doughnuts with a unique spongy texture crowned with sesame seeds designed to be eaten in one bite.

They’re a fascinating little starter, perhaps only just outshone by the sublimely salty raw calamari and dried pea tart, which both delights and bewilders with its contradictory, yet complementary flavours and textures.

The calamari and pea tartlet. Picture: David Kelly

Traditionalists could, perhaps, order the smoked labne ($6) and yeast-leavened flat bread Barbari as a bread and dip combo for a starter instead; but there’s much more fun and deliciousness in the “raw and fermented” section of the menu.

For example, the kingfish crudo, with thick slabs of the uncooked ocean catch coming alive in a cardamom-stained salted yoghurt liquid known as laban.

The kingfish crudo at Gerard’s. Picture: David Kelly

Larger dishes run from king george whiting with wood-fired lentils or F1 Westholme rump cap with fresh herbs, to generous sharing plates including a 700g Bangalow pork tomahawk or wagyu cube roll. We choose the Margra lamb collar ($55). A generous portion for two, the fatty, just-pink meat collapses under the pressure of a knife and fork, ready to be swiped through the accompanying meat and fava bean stew and salt bush-laced yoghurt known as baroni. Sensational! It is, possibly, even better when joined with a portion of the green Palestinian farmers salad ($18).

The green Palestinian farmers salad. Picture: David Kelly

An eclectic wine list with plenty by the glass, covers as far as Morocco and Lebanon and as close as Stanthorpe, with myriad bottles under $100. A visit must not conclude without the booza for dessert. This Lebanese ice cream is created by pounding the milk mixture with a giant Thor-like stick. The process leads to a creamy puddle with an interesting chewy texture, which is perfect to scoop up with the accompanying poppy seed crisps.

Gerard’s has always been one of the state’s finest restaurants, and this latest transformation will, no doubt, ensure it stays that way.

GERARD’S

14/15 James St, Fortitude Valley

3852 3822

gerards.com.au

Open

Mon-Thu 5.30pm-late, Fri-Sat noon-3pm and 5.30pm-late

Must try

Booza

Verdict - Scores out of 5

Food 4.5

Service 4

Ambience 4

Value 3.5

Overall 4