‘Unexpected challenge’ inside new wine bar

The heritage building that once housed Brisbane favourite Montrachet has been expanded to create more room for guests. We tried out Nota’s new space.

Noisy, fun, bustling, Nota in inner-western Paddington has morphed from a smart bistro into a jumping hotspot.

In 2019 Sebastiaan de Kort and Kevin Docherty took over the heritage shopfront filled for many years by the French veteran Montrachet before it decamped to Bowen Hills, creating a relaxed eatery with a Euro vibe.

Now they’ve expanded, knocking an arch into the wall and taking over the tenancy vacated by boutique Miss Henry. Seating has burgeoned from 40 to 80, with more tables on the footpath fronting Given Terrace.

Nota, Paddington, looking through to the new section. Picture: David Kelly

The name has changed too, to Nota Restaurant and Wine Bar, with shelves of wine a feature in front of one of the white-painted brick walls of the new parquetry floored, high-ceiling room with bistro chairs pulled up to bare tables and comfortable banquette seating at the front windows.

Nota, Paddington, with the new room set for a private function. Picture: David Kelly

Rather than one room being the restaurant and the other the wine bar, it’s a movable feast with some tables enjoying the $95 chef’s menu or a la carte options such as quail with polenta, burnt butter jus and hazelnuts ($38) or a moist, tender 400g pork cutlet with caramelised apple puree ($59) and others plumping for snacks like lamb fritters with baba ganoush and beetroot vinaigrette ($14) or a splendid, meaty ham hock presse with a foie gras centre ($20) served with slices of focaccia.

The first time we check out the new space soon after it opened in May, it’s hectic, with almost every seat taken, several tables joined to accommodate a birthday party in the new section and a couple of the kitchen team down with Covid. We’d been contacted to say that due to the staffing situation, it would be a set menu only if we wanted to proceed with the booking.

That wasn’t a problem but hearing wait staff, or indeed each other, over the extraordinary noise made by the group, right next to us, was an unexpected challenge. Our waitress however, was good humoured and we communicated loudly through several courses before she spirited us away to the original part of the restaurant when a table became free. It was the aural equivalent of leaving a runway and sitting in an airport business lounge.

Fraser Island Spanner crab pasta at Nota. Picture: David Kelly

The food from the $95 set menu was good, some dishes great. Scallops bathed in garlic and herb butter were plumply pleasant, the fish sandwich a bit lacklustre with the battered fillet encased in an unremarkable bun, the burrata a bit too cool to unleash its full charms but the strawberry-dominant salad and caramelised balsamic were fine matches, the beef carpaccio with tuna mayo, crispy capers and fried shallots was a delight, Fraser Island spanner crab pasta with chilli and garlic pretty damn good and the Black Onyx steak a truly terrific piece of meat, tender, medium-rare and served with lashings of crisp chips and a flavoursome roasted carrot and whipped feta side.

Nota’s Brisbane Valley quail with sweet corn polenta, burnt butter jus, hazelnut. Picture: David Kelly

The dessert of marshmallows and sorbet was a bit of fun, like elevated school fete fare. On another occasion, the warm oozy, chocolate fondant and fruit crumble with vanilla anglaise prove to be nicely executed, hearty winter comfort treats.

The chef’s menu was a generous cascade of courses with a focus on simplicity, quality produce and complementary flavours and textures rather than detailed, complex cookery.

The wine list has also expanded, with about 90 bottles from across Australia and Europe, with the by-the-glass list featuring an array of mainly small producer wines.

With relaxed, informative service, Nota’s expansion is a welcome boost to what clearly is a favourite in the increasingly interesting array of hospitality options just up the road from Suncorp Stadium.

NOTA RESTAURANT AND BAR

224 Given Tce, Paddington

notarestaurant.com.au

Open

Tue from 6pm; Wed-Thur from 4pm; Fri-Sat from noon with reservations all day
and a limited menu from 3-5.30pm

Verdict

Food 3.5 stars

Service 4 stars

Ambience 3.5 stars

Value 4 stars
Overall

4 stars

For more reviews

visit delicious.com.au/eatout