The $7.50 must-try burger at new Eagle St Pier Thai joint
A chunk of meltingly soft massaman beef wedged in a house-made milk bun stars on the menu at a new riverfront Thai city party palace. How does the rest of the menu measure up?
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A chunk of meltingly soft massaman beef wedged in a house-made milk bun is a meaty encapsulation of the intent of Brisbane’s newest Thai restaurant. Think tradition married with quality produce and a modern sensibility (what self-respecting Thai-ish restaurant doesn’t aim up with a bottler take on the sandwich these days, the bug roll at Burleigh’s Rick Shores has a massive fan club and Same Same’s mini chicken burger was a must-keep on the menu when the venue morphed from its previous incarnation as Longtime).
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This on-the-money iteration ($7.50) has a light, soft, downy bun that could easily be repurposed as pillow stuffing, encasing a tender slab of meat that’s accessorised with pickled cucumber and black onion mayo and it comes with a little dish of extra massaman curry sauce on the side.
We’re at newcomer Naga, overlooking the river at Eagle Street Pier, formerly the site of wood-fired grill specialist Pony, restaurateurs Andrew and Jaimee Baturo describing their latest venture as a “long-term pop-up”, while the precinct is reimagined. Suwisa Phoonsang, previously chef at the couple’s Petrie Terrace restaurant Libertine, is heading the kitchen.
Designer du jour Anna Spiro has set to work on the interior, the brutalist concrete floors offset by a flotilla of dozens of large white lanterns floating below the ceiling. An enclave near the entrance pops with brightly painted bookshelves adorned with vases, magazines and lamps and the exterior balcony has a glorious river and Story Bridge view. The soundtrack is fairly loud (we were beside a speaker) party mix of 60s-80s hits ranging from Hot Chocolate’s You Sexy Thing to Chrissy Hyne purring Don’t Get Me Wrong.
Starters include duck noodle rolls, pork and tiger prawn egg net and pork and rice balls but beyond the massaman roll we opt for the Slipper lobster with a peanut and coconut dressing ($22). Thick-yet-crispy jasmine rice crackers are used to scoop up the mix but it’s almost impossible to make out the flavour of the lobster from the dressing.
The menu is extensive with stir-fries based on Borrowdale pork belly, goldband snapper or Mt Tamborine free-range chicken, curries, wok-fried whole Cone Bay barramundi with a choice of dressings, noodles (the pad Thai protein options include Moreton Bay bugs), and salads such as a DIY-mix green papaya.
Coconut and turmeric Valenca free-range pork shoulder curry ($29) is a coconut cream- enhanced dish with potato, and chilli cucumber, roast peanuts and pickled onion. The flavours are big and the sauce is best mopped up with the pan fried roti ($7.50 for three pieces) and jasmine rice ($3.50).
Enormous succulent Western Australian Shark Bay tiger prawns top a tangle of green mung bean noodles ($35), which despite the addition of smoked speck, ginger, black peppercorn, garlic, coriander and shallot is rather nondescript.
Service is by multiple staff members who get the job done without overly engaging and the drinks list is extensive with stacks of cocktails, zero-to-low-alcohol options, loads of beers and by-the-glass wines in three sizes. The wine list is an eclectic global selection, notable
especially for its lengthy line-up of rosés.
Tapioca and young coconut pudding ($15) is a pleasant tropical conclusion that would suit those seeking something not particularly sweet, while the chilli vodka dark chocolate mousse and ginger coconut sticky rice pudding ($14) bristles with stronger flavours.
Naga adds variety to the Eagle Street restaurant line-up, a bright new offering in the most difficult of times.
NAGA
Food 3
Ambience 3.5
Service 3
Value 3.5
OVERALL
3.5 (Score out of 5)
Must try
Massaman milk bun
nagathai.com.au
Upper Level, Eagle Street Pier, 18/45 Eagle St, Brisbane City
3220 0505