Suburban cafe favourite returns under new ownership

It has been a suburban favourite for more than a decade, but now Willow & Spoon in Newmarket in Brisbane’s inner north, is embarking on a new chapter.

Willow & Spoon’s sudden closure in August this year had the neighbourhood of Wilston, in Brisbane’s inner north, as well as many Courier-Mail readers, in shock and disbelief.

After more than a decade serving locals, the well-loved suburban cafe shut without explanation.

The dining room at Willow & Spoon at Wilston, which has had a mini freshen up. Picture: David Kelly

But then last month it reopened, delighting locals with a slightly tweaked new look, a new owner and a new chapter ready to unfold.

Popular former owner Keith Nunns decided to sell the business to spend more time with his family, with Matt Moses, previously of the uber popular Ruggers Restaurant at Brothers Rugby Club in nearby Albion, taking the reins.

New owner Matt Moses. Picture: David Kelly

Moses’s plan for the venue is to boost the function side of the cafe, with the cosy, character-filled, timber cottage and its spacious covered outdoor area and kids’ playground
able to be booked out for everything from birthday parties and anniversaries to end-of-year parties and sporting club breakups for up to 90 people.

He also hopes to perhaps introduce night-time dining a couple of evenings a week in the New Year.

But first the focus is on reconnecting
with previous fans of the cafe and attracting
new ones with the venue’s always popular brunch offering.

The Willow breakfast with pork belly and truffled scramble at Willow & Spoon in Windsor.

That means a return of many of the cafe’s cult dishes cooked with the same love, care and attention-to-detail such as the “better bacon and eggs”, dirty bird burger and the truffle
toast; with their bacon and pork belly cured in house, all sauces, seasonings and salsas made from scratch, and everything prepared with local ingredients.

A signature making a return is “The Willow” ($28) featuring that house-cured pork belly. The slab of piggy goodness takes an incredible three days to make, and it is worth every second with the fat beautifully rendered and the meat painfully tender under a dark, caramelised crust. It’s a sensation on its own, but even better when swiped through the accompanying dots of piquillo mayo.

Add in the truffle scrambled eggs on soft sourdough toast and you have a simple breakfast of champions.

Moses wants to introduce more specials at lunchtime, such as a duck ragu and a lasagne, but for now, the baja fish tacos ($20) are an excellent choice.

Baja fish tacos at Willow & Spoon in Windsor.

The serve of two features flour tortillas, brilliantly moist and flaky dory in a shatteringly crisp and light batter, alongside a salsa of corn, cucumber and chilli, a smoky chipotle red cabbage slaw, a green sauce and a barrel
load of acidity ensuring you return for bite after bite.

Much of the drinks menu remains the same, with their famous thick shakes returning as well as two of their beloved smoothies. However, the coffee now comes from Albion’s Fonzie Abbott and my flat white is weaker than a toddler in an arm wrestle so be sure to order an extra shot – or maybe two – if you like your brew strong.

The cafe has also retained its liquor license, which means your brunch can come with a
side of French rosé or perhaps an espresso martini, from the list of 10 wines and cocktails; or maybe a beer or cider from the rotating selection of bottles.

Willow & Spoon has always been a neighbourhood favourite, but with terrific food and great service, it deserves to be experienced by many more than just locals.

WILLOW & SPOON

190 Newmarket Rd, Wilston

0420 515 606

willowandspoon.com.au

Open Wed-Sun 7am-1.30pm

Verdict

Food 4

Service 4

Ambience 3.5

Value 4

Overall 4