Opa claims to be Brisbane’s best Greek - but it’s not there yet
This stylish and delicious newcomer, Opa Bar and Mezze, makes big promises - but it’s still got a bit of work to do to come out on top.
QWeekend
Don't miss out on the headlines from QWeekend. Followed categories will be added to My News.
We’re in Brisbane’s best Greek restaurant.
That’s according to the chest-beating homepage of the city’s newest Hellenic offering, Opa Bar and Mezze, on the river in the CBD’s Eagle Street Pier, on the site long occupied by seafood stalwart, Jellyfish.
It’s an aesthetically pleasing space with a broad opening to the waterfront, white linen banquettes curving around booths nOPA Bestling in arches along the white back wall and masses of various sized terrazzo-topped tables set on the grey crazy paving that’s evocative of something you might stumble across on your Greek island sojourn.
In a stylistic echo, plates are also patterned with cracks, and a copper pepper mill sits ready for action.
Opa, a Greek expression of good cheer that might accompany plate smashing or celebration, is full to the gills when we visit not long after its recent opening.
A squadron of staff is buzzing about, our smiling and vigilant waitress high on enthusiasm but low on menu knowledge but she does attempt to find answers to our questions.
The buzzing venue is the latest to be opened by Michael Tassis, who also has George’s Paragon, Rico Bar and Dining, Massimo Restaurant and Bar and Fatcow and Lobster, all in the same precinct.
The name, Opa Bar and Mezze, suggests it’s all about drinks and small plates but the menu is actually enormous.
Bread and dips; oysters and caviar ($225 for 25g with blinis); a “fresh and raw” section including sand crab, lobster, bugs and sardines; mezze including sheftalia (Cypriot sausages) and saganaki; salads; large plates including souvla at $42pp (lamb on the spit, weekends only), spanakopita and moussaka; share plates of a whole chicken, whole lamb shoulder or even half a lamb (order 48 hours in advance, market price), whole baby barramundi and assorted other fish fillets, lobster from the tank and chargrilled bugs.
There are also banquet options.
It’s overwhelming, but we decide to forage among the 21-strong mezze, which are served all day, as that would appear to be the core part of the business.
The pita bread ($9) with a scattering of oregano and a drizzle of oil, is pleasant enough but dense in texture and almost waffle-like in appearance. Everything else then arrives in quick succession.
Flash fried calamari ($22) is tender with an appealing crunchy coating; kolokithokkeftedes ($18), or zucchini fritters, are the best dish in our fried feast, soft discs of chopped vegetable, kefalograviera cheese and mint that are firm enough to remain bound in their breadcrumb casing.
We turn carnivore with the spicy village sausage ($20), which is fine if nothing out of the box; the grilled lamb ribs ($26) that are chunky and tender and fatty and pimped up with oregano and lemon and served with a pool of the spicy cheese dip tyrokafteri for slathering.
Just right for the end of a night’s drinking is a psari burger ($23), a fillet of battered barramundi wedged in a milk bun moistened with a thick smear of taramasalata, a bit of lettuce to wave the flag for the lighter side of life and a decent side of chips.
As the venue’s name suggests the drinks list is an important part of the mix and there’s a hefty line-up of options, which can also be sampled at the large bar space.
Cocktails are named for the Greek gods, the Aphrodite ($20) is a brew of Gold Coast gin, pomegranate lime and prosecco and the wine list is extensive, with by-the-glass options including the Clare Valley winemaker Jim Barry’s take on the assyrtiko for a hefty $17.
At this early stage Opa has burst out of the blocks with good looks and a solid dining experience.
They charge an 8 per cent weekend surcharge, something I’ve never seen before, and which is rather off-putting.
So is the immediate claim to be Brisbane’s best Greek restaurant.
Nothing wrong with aiming high but you’ve got to deliver. But on the basis of this early visit, it’s not there yet.