Must-eat Mexican Bandita launches in Noosaville
His previous restaurants have created a cult-like following, now Jason Jones is bringing his culinary skills to the Sunshine Coast with this waterfront eatery.
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When it first opened 12 years ago, Mamasita was the restaurant that had Melburnians shivering in their all-black winter outfits as they queued down the street for a table in a place that took no bookings.
It was the city’s first taste of authentic modern Mexican fare and residents went loco for it, with the eatery soon developing cult-like status for its wide range of top-notch tacos.
Co-founder and chef Jason Jones then sold out of the business, moving to Singapore to help start up a host of successful Mexican restaurants with The Loco Group. But now the coveted chef is back Down Under, swapping Singapore for the Sunshine Coast, and recently launched Bandita in Noosaville.
The new Mexican eatery sits along foodie hotspot Gympie Terrace and is like something out of Tulum, with white walls, timber bi-fold doors and a sunlit outdoor lounge area looking over to the twinkling Noosa River across the road. On a Sunday afternoon the place is heaving, with customers clearly happy to see something new in the area.
There are a number of families dining and, although you can easily find something for the kids, this is grown-up Mexican. Groups are encouraged to start with snacks, perhaps some guacamole and salsa, a ceviche or a Mexican twist on oysters kilpatrick with bacon and a Carolina reaper-infused Worcestershire sauce.
The quesadillas are a popular choice and the chicken version ($18) – there’s also cactus ($14) – is a standout. The marinated meat comes enveloped in a toasted tortilla and topped with a vibrant, citrusy salsa of cucumber and celery known as pico de gallo verde, plus curls of pickled onion and chipotle mayo that will heat up the back of your throat.
Perhaps even better are the vegetarian-friendly sikil-pak tostadas ($11 for two). Sikil-pak is a dip made of ground roasted pumpkin seeds, tomato and habanero chillies developed way back when by the Mayans. Here it is spread on two puffy, cushion-like, deep-fried corn tortillas and topped with silky soured Maleny cream, a bitey tomatillo and avocado sauce and paper-thin slices of radish. It’s bloody delicious.
The fish taco ($10 each) comes with more of that terrific pico de gallo verde and fiery chipotle mayo, bringing balance and energy to the fillet of charry, barbecued snapper; while the brisket version ($11 each), using Darling Downs beef, leans to the sweet side, with the shredded meat, pickled cabbage and crispy battered onion accompanied by a saccharine habanero marmalade. A wood-fired barbecue is behind all the mains, pumping out everything from slow-cooked veggies with smoked yoghurt to lamb barbacoa and Mooloolaba king prawns with roast chilli oil.
The beef option is the 280g flat-iron steak ($39) served with jalapeño chimichurri. The meat is sous vide for two hours to tenderise it before it hits the barbecue, but ours needs longer on the grill to develop a charry crust to counteract the flabby water bath texture.
Desserts are on the cheaper side by today’s standards and a Mexican take on a French creme brulee ($11) offers a tasty and unexpected finish with the custard flavoured with barbecued rice, almonds and just a whisper of cinnamon, before being poured into a bowl filled with chunks of poached pear and allowed to set. Its top is sprinkled with sugar and bruleed, delivering the classic spoon-tapping snap. The service team is still getting to know the menu and, with Noosa among the worst- affected areas in the state for skilled workers, it may take a while. However, any frustrations in trying to draw the attention of waitstaff can be quickly abolished with a long list of tequila-based cocktails, a bottle or can of local or Mexican beer, or a glass of wine from the mostly Australian list. For authentic modern Mexican on the Sunshine Coast, Bandita is a must visit.
BANDITA
3/271 Gympie Terrace, Noosaville
5408 4363
bandita.com.au
Open
Mon and Thu-Sat noon-9.30pm; Sun noon-sunset
Must-try dish
Sikil-pak tostadas
Verdict – Scores out of 5
Food 4
Service 2.5
Ambience 3.5
Value 3
Overall 3.5
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