Mark Wahlberg burger joint in need of flavour boost

Hollywood’s famous Wahlburgers eatery has opened in Queensland but its so far failing to live up to the hype.

They’re the famous American family who turned their love for burgers and serendipitous name into a global fast food franchise.

Now A-list celebrity Mark Wahlberg and his brothers, chef Paul and fellow actor Donnie, have brought their culinary concept to Queensland. Fittingly, the siblings have launched in the Gold Coast’s tourist hotspot, Surfers Paradise, in the flashy redeveloped Paradise Centre, which opened in September just a fry flick from the beach.

Wahlburgers at Surfers Paradise on the Gold Coast.

Wahlburgers is as prominent as Marky Mark’s cheese-grater abs in his ’90s Calvin Klein commercials, with neon green chairs lining the covered, L-shaped deck and a glowing sign that reads Surfers Paradise emblazoned across the back wall.

The rest of the emerald-hued interior is awash with black and white Wahlburger family photos and TV screens playing sport, while an engraved panel sits above the well-stocked bar displaying a list of Mark’s movie titles. Diners are welcomed and told to sit anywhere and order on their phone using a QR code, but to wave someone down if they need help.

The interior at Wahlburgers at Surfers Paradise on the Gold Coast.

Just make sure you don’t require assistance discovering what ingredients are in certain dishes, with our eager-to-please but uninformed waiter unable to tell us what was in a particular salad dressing despite repeated attempts and even a visit to the kitchen to ask. Said salad dressing is also as tasteless as the cringe-worthy Daddy’s Home 2 film Mark starred in.

Despite drowning every leaf, corn kernel and dice of tomato in the salmon and crispy tortilla salad ($23), the supposed ranch seems devoid of the honey and lime flavouring it promises. Thankfully, the well-seared salmon on a mess of leaves is more than generously seasoned, providing minimal redemption.

Salmon and tortilla salad at Wahlburgers, Surfers Paradise.

What could also do with a flavour boost is the venue’s version of an Aussie burger ($19). It takes chef Paul’s classic burger with a beef patty, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, American cheese and “Wahl sauce” and adds beetroot, pineapple and a fried egg. What’s missing though is the chariness of a flame-grilled beef patty – scorched and bar-marked – and some good ol’ tomato sauce for that salty-sweet acidity.

Perhaps the “Aussie chicken schnitty” burger ($18.50) would be better, or one of the other 13 burgers, including the crispy fish bun creation, a vegetarian option and two vegan numbers.

One of the burgers at Wahlburgers in Surfers Paradise.

The restaurant’s line-up of loaded fries includes a chicken salt and Vegemite aioli incarnation, and a spicy cheese and bacon rendition ($15.50) as mild as a Darwin winter.

What Wahlburgers does well though is milkshakes, with an apple pie concoction ($12) like a liquid version of American diner nostalgia.

Customers can even order it spiked with Melbourne moonshine as one of the five boozy thickshakes available, alongside some budget-friendly wines, twists on classic cocktails, alcoholic and non-alcoholic spiders and beer.

Wahlburgers is a venue built on the name of its famous owners, but it will need more to succeed in the flooded Queensland burger market than a bit of celebrity pulling power.

For more reviews visit delicious.com.au/eatout

WAHLBURGERS SURFERS PARADISE

Shop EP008/9 Paradise Centre, 2 Cavill Ave, Surfers Paradise

5638 3620

wahlburgers.com

Open Sun-Wed 7am-10pm, Thu 7am-11pm, Fri-Sat 7am-midnight

Verdict

Food 2.5

Service 3

Ambience 3

Value 3

Overall 3