Inside Hamptons revamp of iconic Manly Boathouse

A long-time Brisbane waterside hotspot has been rebuilt and reopened by new owners. Take a look inside.

Anooska Tucker-Evans

3 min read

March 4, 2021 - 2:00PM

Room with a view: Manly Boathouse. Picture: Mark Cranitch

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Wilsons Boathouse was a Brisbane Bayside icon for almost two decades. Winning numerous awards and even visited by Hollywood star Angelina Jolie, it was renowned for its highly envied location.

Just a napkin toss from the water’s edge, it resided at one of the eastern-most tips of Manly, encircled by yachts and sail boats bobbing just outside its windows.

But last year the State Government-owned building came up for tender and the previous tenant Neil Jedid was beaten to the punch by new lease-holders Nikki and Greg Kay.

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The husband-and-wife team are behind the hugely popular Reef Seafood and Sushi restaurant in Brisbane’s Newstead and have completely gutted Wilsons, transforming it into a glamorous Hamptons-style, coastal dining precinct. There’s a stunning main restaurant – all white and bright with elegant rattan furniture, sprawling round and long tables for groups, and a long, brass-trimmed bar that spills out onto a spacious astro-turfed outdoor dining area shaded by white and navy umbrellas and a marquee. All of which is positioned to capture that spectacular water view.

On the waterfront: Manly Boathouse with its stunning views. Picture: Mark Cranitch.

While not open during my visit, coming soon is a takeaway fish and chippery out the front, and a coffee shop, gelateria and patisserie down the side – set to be welcome additions to the package.

In the main restaurant, chef Braden White (ex-The Apo, Fortitude Valley, and Miss Moneypenny’s) has created a simple but lengthy menu befitting the area including snacks such as oysters, a bucket of prawns and flash fried fish wings, small plates such as barbecued scallops, or gnocchi with gorgonzola and porcini, a grill section with proteins cooked over ironbark, running from line-caught goldband snapper to steak, and share plates such as Greek-style slow-cooked lamb shoulder or a whole fried New Zealand squire with a hot sour dressing and green mango salad. Flying out of the kitchen in bulk is the flash-fried squid ($18) which comes in a golden, bubbly, tempura-style batter with its crispness contrasting against the soft protein. Liberally zigzagged with a ginger-spiked mayo and sitting in an extremely mild chilli caramel, it’s a tasty spin on a ubiquitous dish.

Also from the small plates section are the lamb ribs ($24), cooked perfectly with the smoky, fatty meat sliding like socks on a slippery floor off the bone ready for a dipping in the accompanying harissa-blended mayo or black salt-flecked sour cream.

Showing mastery of the wood-fired grill is the pork loin chop ($35), which arrives only just cooked through in the centre, its fat rendered, accompanied by a spoonful of sweet pear and apple chutney.

Flying out of the kitchen: The flash fried squid at Manly Boathouse. Picture: Mark Cranitch.

Unfortunately a fillet of tuna ($32) – which was supposed to be swordfish, but is unavailable – is not so finessed on the grill, coming out overcooked atop a mash of far-too-smoky eggplant. There are only two desserts – White’s signature passionfruit curd, dried meringue and liquid nitrogen condensed milk snow, plus a tiramisu, alongside a selection of cheeses, leaving room for the patisserie and gelateria next door to take care of any other sugar cravings when they open.

A solid cocktail list, broad selection of CUB beers and a collection of well-priced favourites from the likes of Jim Barry, Cloudy Bay and Vasse Felix make up the wine offering, while there are plenty of spirits – boutique and mainstream – for those who are after something a little stronger.

Mastery of the grill: Pork loin chop at Manly Boathouse. Picture: Mark Cranitch.

The only flaw is the service. The young team is extremely friendly and engaging but there are teething problems as the freshly opened venue struggles to cope with demand. However, no doubt these will be ironed out as time passes.

With the newly constructed spectacular space now taking full advantage of its stunning vista, Manly Boathouse is a venue that will surely become the icon its predecessor was.