Inside GOMA restaurant’s bold new shake-up
After farewelling its acclaimed chef, Brisbane’s Gallery of Modern Art has revamped its signature restaurant, taking it in a completely new direction.
QWeekend
Don't miss out on the headlines from QWeekend. Followed categories will be added to My News.
It was one of Queensland’s best restaurants. A top 10 finisher in last year’s delicious. 100, and adored by foodies, the local cheffing community and, of course, critics.
I’m talking about GOMA restaurant inside South Brisbane’s Gallery of Modern Art. The somewhat under-the-radar restaurant was helmed by head chef Matt Blackwell – a culinary whiz with talents that put him in the top percentile in his field – whose food was imaginative, innovative and unusual, but most importantly, undeniably enjoyable to eat.
However, after almost five years of plating up food as fascinating as the exhibitions that surrounded it, Blackwell decided to pack up his knives at the beginning of July and leave in search of new adventures. His departure has led QAGOMA in an unexpected new direction.
Instead of finding a replacement for Blackwell, they have completely flipped the restaurant concept and launched something new in the same space – keeping the clean, white walls, standout scarlet-hued glass chandelier and breezy outdoor area overlooking the Brisbane River. The result is what they’re calling GOMA Farm-to-Table – a three-month pop-up, running until October 1 to coincide with the exhibitions eX de Medici: Beautiful Wickedness and Michael Zavros: The Favourite.
The work of the Gallery’s executive chef Aaron Holt, the eatery features a two ($65) and three-course ($80) set menu with four dishes per course to choose from, plus additional optional sides, using the best produce from local suppliers, complemented by a selection of Queensland and Australian wines.
While Blackwell’s cuisine really pushed the boundaries, delighting with new flavour combinations served up in unexpected ways, the new pop-up is slightly more orthodox.
Arguably sitting somewhere between up-market bistro and fine diner, the food is now more approachable than progressive.
Take an entree of confit suckling pig for example. It is served with its classic flavour pairing of parsnip, while the kitchen keeps things modern by turning the root vegetable into ribbons of chips (although ours have lost their snap and become a little limp from the heat of the meat, as have the splinters of pork crackling on top).
Another tried and tested matching is lobster and gnocchi in our second entree, with the poached crustacean almost still translucent and butter soft against the decidedly firm, pan-fried gnocchi, brightened by pops of salmon caviar.
Sadly suffering the same fate as the parsnip and crackling on our entree, are the chips crowning our main of pan-roasted barramundi and pipis. While the ocean catch is cooked well, it does long for the crunch those crisps would provide.
Classic cookery continues with the braised lamb shoulder joined by carrots three ways, dollops of labneh and some saltbush that is again supposed to be crispy but isn’t. Regardless of the saltbush miss, it’s a tasty traditional dish.
Desserts follow in a similar vein to the previous incarnation of the restaurant – native Australian flavours combined with liquid nitrogen to create edible magic like our peach and Kakadu plum mousse with cultured cream that resembles a bowl of snow.
Service seems to be in keeping with the new slightly more casual restaurant style, with waitstaff extra chatty, although not when it comes to explaining the dishes – instead just delivering them to the table and leaving, unless diners specifically ask for clarification. This is something that could be improved upon.
The new GOMA Farm-to-Table experience is almost nothing like its predecessor. Although there will be the hardcore foodies who long for its return, on my visit, the restaurant is busier than I’ve ever seen it, so it’s new direction is clearly finding its place.
GOMA Farm-to-Table Restaurant
Queensland Gallery of Modern Art, Stanley Pl, South Brisbane
3840 7303
qagoma.qld.gov.au/visit/eat-and-drink/
Open
Thu-Sun 11.30am-3.30pm
Must eat dish
Peach and Kakadu plum dessert
Verdict
Food 3.5
Service 3
Ambience 3.5
Value 3
Overall 3.5
‘What the f*** is wrong with you?’: Dinner party turns chaotic
It started so well, but then Frances Whiting made a decision that threw her dinner party into chaos.
Bucket list: Australia’s 100 most delicious food experiences
Discover the best dining, drinks, produce and foodie experiences near you in a mouth-watering new take on the Delicious 100 list and vote for your favourite.