‘If you want to go, book now’: Seats hard to find at Brisbane’s hottest new Thai restaurant

If you want to go to Brisbane’s hottest new Thai restaurant, you better book now – this place fills up fast.

Turmeric wafer atShort Grain by Martin Boetz in Fortitude Valley. Picture: Jeremy Simons.

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If you want to go to Brisbane’s hottest new Thai restaurant, book now. The place is under siege. Only open a few weeks, Short Grain in Marshall St in Fortitude Valley is hectic, with all tables in use during our sitting and as soon as one is evacuated, more people arrive to take
up position.

The 60-seater is the work of lauded chef Martin Boetz, originally from Brisbane.

His CV includes working under Thai food legend David Thompson at Sydney’s Darley Street Thai and Sailor’s Thai at The Rocks, followed by a lengthy tenure at Longrain, the Thai institution that he co-owned and opened in Sydney in 1999 and, later, in Melbourne.

Most recently Boetz ran event space and market garden The Cook’s Shed on the banks of the Hawkesbury River but decided to return to Brisbane, where his mother still lives.

Short Grain’s food is very much of the same ilk as Longrain: beautiful dishes with deeply layered flavours, using the freshest produce, and desserts that insist on as much attention as that which has gone before.

Head chef Daniele Passaretta (ex-Same Same) was trained at Fortitude Valley’s now-defunct Longtime restaurant by its head chef Ben Bertei, who was one of Boetz’s original apprentices.

Short Grain by Martin Boetz in Fortitude Valley. Picture: Richard Walker

The eatery is in the heritage-listed Stewart & Hemmant building, which also houses Rosmarino and Etna pizzeria.

The L-shaped tenancy in the one-time clothing factory that later became an Asian food store is a pleasing mix of high ceilings, exposed brickwork, wooden floors and huge windows, with the restaurant down one wing in front of the open kitchen and the other a bar and food store, with shelves of the chef’s curry pastes, dressings, chilli jam, sauces, ferments, spices and take-home wine.

While it’s a very attractive space, the tables are rather cheek by jowl, creating a bustling canteen vibe, with those in the process of ordering collegially chatting and checking out what’s on neighbouring tables.

It’s casual and rather noisy but fun, and wait staff are numerous and keen.

Drinks fill a single page, including Tiger lager, a lychee martini and Short Grain-branded gewurztraminer and shiraz from Victoria’s Delatite Wines.

Reservations are for one hour 45 minutes (groups of four or more get two hours), up from 90 minutes when we visited, with our waitress on the case and keen for us to stop dithering and order.

This is difficult as every item on the menu of seven appetisers, six mains – including three curries and a whole fish – and four desserts demands to be tried.

A dish from Short Grain by Martin Boetz in Fortitude Valley. Picture: Jeremy Simons.

Oysters, one each, arrive first and they’re tricked up with red chilli nahm jim and fried eschalots ($7.50), which makes them tongue-tinglingly arresting but the clean freshness of the seafood is rather obscured. 

Our other appetiser, described as a turmeric wafer, is quite the opposite.

It’s a delicate vehicle, a giant, thin-yet-crisp pancake, spilling its cargo of caramelised coconut, prawns, peanuts and bean shoots ($26), which are all vibrant freshness and crisp flavours.

Main courses are appealingly presented, with the first to arrive a dry red curry encasing crisp chunks of pork belly, further enhanced by salted duck egg and lime leaves ($42).

A light and flaky roti ($12) assists with wiping up any last vestiges and is also put to good use with the aromatic green curry of reef cod, Thai eggplant, snake beans and Thai basil ($53).

Duck egg caramel custard tarts Short Grain by Martin Boetz in Fortitude Valley. Picture: Jeremy Simons.

Dessert should not be resisted.

Silken, duck egg caramel custard tart with salted pork fat pastry ($18) is a lush, not-to-be missed finale, while black sticky rice, married with plump slices of perfectly ripe mango and coconut cream ice cream ($16) is also terrific.

The combination of quality Thai food and a casual, atmospheric setting makes Short Grain
a welcome, spicy boost to Brisbane’s food scene.

SHORTGRAIN BY MARTIN BOETZ
15 Marshall St,
Fortitude Valley

0423 073 225

shortgrain.com.au

Open

Wed-Sat 5pm until late, Sun 11.30am-4pm

Must try

Turmeric wafer and duck egg caramel custard tart

The verdict

Food 4 stars

Service 4 stars

Ambience 4 stars

Value 3.5 stars 

Overall 4 stars

delicious.com.au/eatout