‘Everything you expect from this hospitality family’: First review of Gambaro’s Pipi’s

Well known for its Brisbane hospitality offerings, the Gambaro empire has expanded its reach to the South East Queensland coast, but this one comes with an unbeatable addition.

The dining room at Pipi's in Coolangatta.

In a state with a massive coastline, it’s almost shocking we don’t have more restaurants by the ocean.

But beloved Brisbane hospitality family the Gambaros has just proudly added to the tally, with the opening of waterfront cafe Awaken and restaurant Pipi’s in Coolangatta.

Both situated within the lavish new Awaken Rainbow Bay apartment tower, the health-skewed cafe, coffee shop and patisserie occupies the ground floor, while the restaurant takes the first level and the more impressive vista with spectacular views over Point Danger, down towards Kingscliff and out over the ocean across the street.

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Pipi’s colour palette is mostly of soft creams, terracotta rose hues and sand tones, allowing for the stunning blue water seen through a wall of windows to be the star of the elegant, contemporary space.

But giving it a run for its money is the service.

The Gambaro team – now famous for its Brisbane institution Gambaro Seafood on Caxton St, as well as the Black Hide steakhouses and Italian eatery Persone – has clearly invested heavily into the training of its staff.

At Pipi’s, the smartly dressed servers are friendly, attentive and knowledgeable, but also quick to find out details when questioned if they’re unsure of the answers.

They walk us through the Mediterranean-leaning menu, which brings together the family’s three specialities of seafood, steak
and pasta, and deliver the complimentary
amuse bouche of a fresh and vibrant gazpacho that is so good I would order it as an entree if
I could.

Swordfish skewer at Pipi's in Coolangatta.

The restaurant specialises in caviar bumps from French producer Kaviari paired with either a shot of Belvedere vodka or a glass of Taittinger champagne, but we instead start with the venue’s spin on the now ubiquitous Moreton Bay bug roll – a crispy prawn roll ($19.50).

The oblong-shaped bread roll arrives bearing a large battered prawn and lettuce leaf, doused with a green tarragon mayo.

It’s a satisfying snack, but perhaps outshone by the swordfish skewer ($10).

While only two bites in size, the fancy fish stick is elevated with a robust puttanesca sauce that’s sweet with onion and delivers just the right amount of chilli kick.

Entrees include chargrilled squid, chicken souvlaki, roasted cauliflower and Fremantle octopus carpaccio ($34) which we order.

Octopus carpaccio at Pipi's in Coolangatta.

The purple-tinged tentacles have been thinly sliced and elegantly splayed across the plate, beneath orange segments, sprigs of dill and a tomato salsa, with it all benefiting from a good hit of salt from the grinder on the table.

There are nine mains, running from chargrilled spatchcock and a fish of the day to a 300g dry-aged rib eye for $99, plus a signature seafood platter ($130) filled with oysters, Mooloolaba king prawns, a Moreton Bay bug and fish tartare.

Lamb cutlets with eggplant "caviar" at Pipi's in Coolangatta.

Our waiter warns us that the chef likes to serve the Australian White lamb cutlets ($57) pink, and she’s not kidding, with the meat almost still bleating when it hits the table.

Luckily, I have no objections to rare protein and it is supremely tender, needing nothing more than the jus it’s served with, rather than the eggplant puree on the side, oddly described as a “caviar”.

As for the lobster linguine ($68), a feature on all four tables around us, it is everything you would expect from this hospitality family – al dente handmade pasta, tender crustacean and a generous, Italian-sized portion.

If you’re a fan of the Gambaros’ Brisbane restaurants, this Gold Coast newcomer will be right up your alley, with all the signatures the clan is known for, plus the bonus of a truly beautiful view.

The crispy prawn roll at Pipi's in Coolangatta.

Pipi’s Restaurant

Level 1/275 Boundary St, Coolangatta

5603 5273

pipisrestaurant.au

Open

Wed-Sat 11.30am-3pm, 5.30pm-11pm

Sun 11am-6pm

Verdict

Food 3.5 stars

Service 4.5 stars

Ambience 4.5 stars

Value 3 stars

Overall

4/5 stars