‘A terrific little surprise package’: New Newstead restaurant you must try
Whether you’re looking for an intimate date night or just an evening off cooking, this Brisbane newcomer is bound to become a dining favourite.
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I’m going to say it straight off the bat, Monal Dining is the neighbourhood bistro we all wish we had in our suburb. The newly opened restaurant in Brisbane’s Newstead is both humble in its feel, but also sophisticated thanks to an experienced floor team led by co-owner and ex-five-star hotel supervisor Roman Bhandari, and the elevated food from fellow
co-owner Yogesh Budhathoki and chef Jake Smith, both fresh from the kitchen of one of the city’s most popular eateries, Honto.
While Monal is the kind of place you could easily stroll down to after a hard day at work when the thought of cooking is as appealing as a root canal, it’s also chic enough to make a date night feel special with a cool Melbourne wine bar vibe thanks to the fit-out of midnight-hued walls, bentwood chairs, proper cloth napkins and elegant stemware.
The charming waitress, who doubles as the sommelier on our visit, convinces us to sit outside on the raised deck, with the temperature just right for alfresco dining. She’s also quick to suggest a sparkling wine from Tasmania that is beautifully complex and balanced and just right for the fare that is described very loosely as modern Australian.
Budhathoki and Bhandari are Nepalese and love to sneak some of their heritage into dishes, while the rest of the menu is an eclectic global mix running from beef tartare with Chinese fried bread or crumbed eggplant with romesco and kombu to Hokkaido scallops with apple and green chilli or grilled barramundi with onion and ginger relish and broth.
“You have to order the pork dumplings. They’re my favourite,” Bhandari insists.
The little piggy parcels ($20 for five) are a fusion of the classic Nepalese momo dumplings and Japan’s gyoza, pan-fried on one side and steamed revealing a firm but tasty filling of herbs and spices complemented by a terracotta-hued hemp seed sauce with chilli oil.
Our other entree is what’s described on the menu as “pulled lamb, fried pastry, chilli mayo” ($17) and is actually a trio of deep-fried empanadas. With glossy, bubbly pastry enveloping tender lamb ready to be swiped through a chilli oil-tinted mayonnaise they are a terrific snack, which would be a treat on their own with one of the venue’s two beers on tap, or maybe even one of the six house cocktails.
Mains are not just substantial they’re huge and very well priced – perfect to share with a group, accompanied by one of the three sides.
Our picks are the lamb shoulder ($45) and the lemon-glazed chicken ($40). The first has been braised into submission, it’s still-pink flesh collapsing under the knife in one of those TV cooking show moments that elicit oohs and ahhs from the audience. With the lamb bathing in a tomato and fermented bean sauce, the only regret is not having bread to mop it all up.
Shockingly almost just as tender is that glazed chicken. While chook is far too often drier than the Sahara, this bird cuts like butter, with its blackened skin providing sweet caramelised notes against the mild yet aromatic green curry sauce it floats in. Fantastic!
And just as good is the side of grilled cabbage ($15) – the wilted leaves on a cashew puree of sorts with the blend of sesame seeds and seaweed known as furikake showered over the top for umami. We’re far too full for dessert – either a dark chocolate and plum number or a crème caramel – but could easily go another glass of wine from the well-rounded Australian and New Zealand list, with a beyond generous (especially for a neighbourhood restaurant) array of 21 by-the-glass options.
Monal Dining is a terrific little surprise package. Having taken over a former cafe space at the base of an apartment tower, it serves up food well above its suburban location, but with all the charm, passion and personality of a neighbourhood favourite.
MONAL DINING
48 Skyring Terrace, Newstead
0435 882 342
Open
Tue-Thu 5.30-10pm, Fri-Sat 12.30-3pm and 5.30-10pm
Must eat
Lemon-glazed chicken
Verdict
Food 4
Service 4
Ambience 4
Value 4
Overall 4
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