Does new Brisbane cafe live up to its raved-over predecessors?
When this city fringe place opened last month it came with the weight of great expectations, considering it fills the space formerly occupied by two highly-popular ventures. Check out our review.
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To the uninitiated, Clementine appears to be just your typical suburban cafe.
A bright and breezy neighbourhood eatery with a Scandi-meets-coastal fit-out of white walls, pale timbers and on-trend greenery leading out to an intimate and enclosed timber deck area, which brings shelter from the elements.
But when it opened last month it came with the weight of great expectation.
You see, Clementine in Wilston, in Brisbane’s inner north, fills the space formerly occupied by 14-seat degustation restaurant Elska (now at New Farm) and, prior to that, award-winning cafe Freja’s.
Both ventures were owned by the hardworking, charming and community-focused couple Freja and Nathan Dunnell, long loved by locals for their sustainable, ethical and provincial approach to food and passionate attitude towards old-school hospitality.
The husband and wife had become entrenched in the area, with regular diners taking on friend status.
So when the pair made the difficult decision to move their restaurant a short drive away into a more suitable space, Freja was adamant she would leave the community in safe hands. And so she took on the role of consultant to Clementine, sharing chef Nathan’s tried, tested and beloved breakfast recipes from Freja’s cafe with the new kitchen team to create a sort of spin-off of the original.
For locals and those who crossed town for the cafe’s wares, it means croissants flown in from France are again back on the menu – the hazelnut and chocolate version is a must – and Nathan’s outstanding crumpets with lemon curd and ricotta hotcakes have returned. Also reappearing is Freja’s famous mushroom and potato rosti dish and their tomato chutney served with eggs your way. It’s a 2.0 version in shiny, new and far more expensive attire – the old open fit-out closed in with costly bi-fold windows and doors that ensure the space feels slick and smart yet relaxed and approachable.
The service delivers laid-back charm with polish and skill, thanks to attentive, engaging staff who boast an in-depth knowledge of the menu. As such, the young woman at the counter approves my breakfast order of the winter pasta ($26) and the spanner crab scramble ($24).
The former is perhaps inspired by Freja’s popular gnocchi dish, with this version starring al dente pappardelle shimmering in glossy maroon-hued beef ragu dusted with shavings of sheep’s milk pecorino which melt into the sauce delivering salty, sharp bursts of seasoning.
The latter features silky, just-set eggs encasing generous clumps of spanner crab that smack of the sea on chewy sourdough, which almost tastes like light rye. A hint more chilli wouldn’t go astray in the accompanying chutney but it’s not entirely necessary.
It’s the type of dish that would no doubt work well with a glass of the Lark Hill riesling or maybe The Pawn El Desperado pinot grigio, available after 10am from the tight, mostly Australian, wine list with a focus on affordability, featuring glasses for $8-$11 and bottles for $30-$50.
Aussie craft brews including Balter and Modus Operandi are also available, plus a range of house-pressed juices including a palate-cleansing watermelon, apple and lime number.
Coffee is from Common Coffee and comes pleasantly bitter on milk, while batch and cold brews are also available, plus puppycinos for your furry friends.
While Clementine may have big shoes to fill, if its first few weeks are an indication of its future, Freja can rest assured she’s left the space in safe hands.
CLEMENTINE
3/1 Macgregor Street, Wilston
0466 797 098
Open daily 6am-3pm
VERDICT – Scores out of 5
Food 3.5
Ambience 3.5
Service 4
Value 3
Overall 3.5
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