I spent 11 days in Sicily, and now I'm hooked forever

I had moments of pure magic on this island adventure under the blazing Mediterranean sun.

Was it the first bite of pistachio granita, cool and grainy against the Sicilian heat, the golden moonlight dancing on ancient cobblestones, or the unexpected strings duo turning a quiet 17th-century square into a rocking Coldplay concert? I can’t say for certain, but nearly two weeks of exploring this sunbaked, fiercely passionate island where history whispers from every corner, leaves me utterly captivated by Sicily.

The magic starts as I touch down at Palermo’s Falcone Borsellino Airport at the tail end of summer, hoping for a reprieve from the heat, much like the locals who are weary of their long, scorching season. But the forecast holds firm in the mid-30s, with humidity so dense that each step beyond air-conditioning feels like a countdown to the next cold shower.

The hotel pool is undeniably tempting, but with Sicily’s capital on my doorstep, I join 20 fellow travellers to explore with Alessia from Bunnik Tours on the first steps of an 11-day adventure circumnavigating the island.

Josie, the local guide for an Anti-Mafia walking trail through Palermo’s old town, shares one haunting tale after another at Piazza della Memoria, where a 100m-long wall bears witness to countless lives tragically cut short by the Mafia.

As I wander the cobblestone streets, my fingers brush against the ancient stones of the city’s original wall, standing firm since the eighth century BC. Tempting market stalls line the narrow alleys, but there’s no time to linger. Dodging motorbikes is the real priority. Riders zigzag around pedestrians as if we’re annoying obstacles in their path.

As I wander the cobblestone streets, my fingers brush against the ancient stones of the city’s original wall, standing firm since the eighth century BC.

Milazzo is the day two destination, but the first tour stop is the bustling seaside village of Cefalù. Even though it’s a tourist hotspot, it immediately wins my heart. Who couldn’t love the perfect lines of striped beach umbrellas curved around a blue bay? The shops are full of stylish shoes and artisan clothing. Here, I have my first taste of the Sicilian breakfast food that’s to become my daily pleasure – granita with a warm, orange-infused brioche.

My respect for Italian engineering grows as our bus travels along a highway atop giant viaducts spanning deep valleys. The road hugs the coastline, offering spectacular views when we are not travelling through the myriad tunnels.

Sunset drinks in Milazzo set the tone for the next day’s adventure: a hydrofoil escape to the Aeolian island of Lipari. Famous since the fourth millennium BC for its prized obsidian, a volcanic glass perfect for crafting tools, Lipari is crowned by an ancient citadel overlooking the town. The main street is a lively promenade lined with restaurants and shops showcasing the island’s specialty, capers graded from small to enormous. I relish a classic Sicilian caponata bursting with these local gems.

Sunset drinks in Milazzo set the tone for the next day’s adventure.

Back on the mainland, the next stop is Taormina, a destination thrust into the global spotlight by the second series of television’s black comedy hit The White Lotus. Lined with high-end boutiques and artisan shops, Corso Umberto buzzes with a medieval charm as bridal parties and tourists stroll along the pedestrian strip. I snag a table at the Piazza IX Aprile terrace, perfect for sunset drinks and viewing the twinkling sea below.

Even in the early morning, the deep grey, lava-strewn slopes of Mount Etna are cloaked in a shimmering heat haze. The mountain’s lunar landscape is just a daytrip from Taormina. On the way back, we stop at Barone Di Villagrande winery for lunch, where volcanic ash enriches the soil, adding a unique character to the wines.

Local guide Aureliano turns my tour of Catania into a food odyssey. I stand in Piazza del Duomo, a vast square almost the size of a football field, built to offer refuge during earthquakes. It’s a haunting reminder of the 1693 quake that killed 12,000 people, two-thirds of the city’s population. As we explore, I snack on the “breast” of St Agatha (a traditional Sicilian pastry), learn the proper way to eat arancini and quench my thirst with Seltz, a refreshing mix of local lemons, sea salt, and sparkling water.

Back on the mainland, the next stop is Taormina, a destination thrust into the global spotlight by the second series of The White Lotus.

The beautiful Baroque buildings of the neighbourhood of Ragusa Ibla carve out a permanent place in my heart. Rebuilt after the same earthquake that flattened Catania, its romantic balconies whisper stories of intrigue with a wink of Baroque humour. Here, I discover biancomangiare, a delicate almond-infused treat that makes me wonder if I will bother with regular breakfast ever again.

Next stop is the Unesco World Heritage-listed Valley of the Temples in Agrigento. It’s a ridgetop lined with some of the best-preserved Greek temples outside Greece, dating back to the fifth century BC.

After Marsala’s colourful Vespas and shopping temptations, Erice’s cool hilltop air is a welcome relief from days of relentless heat. My first stop is to enjoy the famed Genovesi ericine, a lemon cream-filled pastry. After all the heat, I’m shivering and rush to buy a scarf so I can fully appreciate the breathtaking views from the top.

Next stop is the Unesco World Heritage-listed Valley of the Temples in Agrigento.

On the final night, I savour Sicilian sardines and pasta, followed by cannoli. As I polish off the last crumb, I realise Sicily isn’t done with me yet. I want more time to hide from the sun in her golden piazzas, bask in her beachy vibes, and fool myself into thinking I’m a local. Alas, it will have to be next time, and there will be a next time.

How to tour Sicily with Bunnik Tours

Bunnik Tours offers seven 10-day guided air-conditioned bus Treasures of Sicily tours, staying in three- and four-star hotels from May to October 2025, with prices starting from $5995.

The writer was a guest of Bunnik Tours.

Originally published as I spent 11 days in Sicily, and now I'm hooked forever