I cruised on the new Nile ships unlocking ancient Egyptian secrets

During a sneak peek of two new glamorous river ships sailing the Nile, this traveller discovered gods and goddesses, kings and queens, and museums old and new. 

Hathor is an ancient Egyptian A-lister, a sun deity teeming with feminine energy and a potent symbol of fertility, love, and pleasure. She embodies all the joyful things – celebration, music, dance among others – with one cheeky scholar describing her as “the goddess to get a beer with”.

Delving into the many charismatic goddesses and gods of the ancient world is one reason Egypt is a magnet for travellers. So, when I arrive in Luxor for the christening of two new Viking Nile river ships and one is called Hathor, it seems a good omen.

As for Sobek, whose name graces the other ship, I’m keen to find out what role he played back in the third millennium BC. Fortunately my travelling companions and I are in the hands of Viking journey director Hanan Elbeih for a shortened version of the popular 12-day Pharaohs & Pyramids itinerary so all my questions can be answered. The Egyptian-American has a master’s degree in Egyptology, and the gift of Thoth, the god of wisdom, science and communication, meaning no stone is left unturned when it comes to giving us a lesson – or the crib notes, at least – on the ancient kingdoms.

Ancient mysteries

The five-night trip starts in Cairo with the number-one Egyptian attractions: the Pyramids of Giza and the Sphinx. Minds still boggle at how these engineering and architectural feats were constructed, and seeing them in person only serves to amplify the mystery.

A modern marvel is next in the form of the newly (partially) opened Grand Egyptian Museum. The GEM lives up to its acronym and is destined to be one of the world’s best galleries. The modernist architecture, adorned with hieroglyphics and alabaster, references the nearby pyramids, which can be seen from multiple vantage points. The curation is impeccable. Sculptures – including an 11m, 3200-year-old statue of the pharaoh Ramses II in the atrium – tools, pottery, and sarcophagi come together to tell a vivid tale of ancient dynasties and civilisation. I’d go back to Egypt for the GEM alone. Oh, and to eat as many ta’meya, fava-bean falafels, as possible.

An after-hours tour of Cairo’s more dishevelled Egyptian Museum follows. It’s full of objects of intrigue, more than 170,000, but the stunner is the funerary mask of King Tutankhamun. This dazzling gold piece was discovered by archaeologist Howard Carter 100 years ago and remains, with the pyramids, the genesis for many people’s obsession with ancient Egypt. Along with many other objects in the museum, it will eventually go to the GEM as part of its full opening – yet another reason to return.

The whirlwind day concludes with dinner at the Khan El-Khalili bazaar. The oldest souk in Egypt, established in 1382, it’s a maze of laneways crammed with restaurants and shops. It’s our first introduction to the infamous touts, who coax us to buy everything from earthenware, brass and mother-of-pearl boxes to spices and perfume, tablecloths and galabeyas, the traditional tunic dress of the locals. The experience is quite the rush and so crowded it seems the country’s entire 117 million population has decided to visit, but with our guide Hanan leading the way, we’re in safe hands.

Setting sail

The following morning we fly to Luxor to take part in the inaugural sailings of Sobek and Hathor. In the blush of a spectacular sunset on the bank of the Nile the formalities commence. Viking puts a modern spin on the maritime tradition for ships to be christened by godmothers with Champagne, instead choosing godfathers to bid safe passage for passengers and crew and mark the occasion with bottles of aquavit, a Scandinavian spirit with a Thor-like punch, smashing the hull.

The godfather of Viking Hathor is the Hon Edward Herbert whose great-great-grandfather, the 5th Earl of Carnarvon, was the benefactor to Howard Carter of King Tut fame. Mohammed El Banna, owner of Cosmos Travel, Viking’s exclusive tour operator in Egypt and an Egyptian senator, names Sobek. I’ve now learnt he is the god of crocodiles and, auspiciously for the river journey I’m about to embark on, protector of waterways.

The ceremony concludes with a visit to the nearby Temple of Karnak, also known as the Temple of Amun-Re, the god of creation, sun and air. The area is dominated by 134 columns, 12 more than 20m tall; it’s the first time I see hieroglyphics in situ. Learning to read these ancient emojis may sound fanciful, but with each monument and cartouche, and the fire hose of facts from Hanan, our recognition and understanding of the symbols grows.

A lot of hot air

It’s tempting to be put off by the 4am departure for an optional (at extra cost) hot-air ballooning experience over the Valley of the Kings, but when you book this tour, mark it as essential. Fifty vivid balloons taking off at dawn’s magic hour look epic on your Instagram feed and if you’re going somewhere as exotic as Egypt, you may as well show it off (I did!).

The aerial perspective of the Nile and the green vein of vegetation running along its verge makes the expanse of desert in every other direction even more pronounced.

Back on land the hits keep coming. In the Valley of the Kings, Tutankhamun’s more than three-millennia-old mummified body is the most renowned, but the other 60-odd burial chambers are just as extraordinary. The walls and ceilings in the tombs of Ramses VI and Seti are completely covered in hieroglyphics; some are carved, others brightly coloured as if only painted yesterday; all represent the importance of the afterlife and the role of divinity for the living and the dead.

I return to the luxury of Sobek for our first Nile sailing. Sobek and Hathor are identical, each accommodating 82 guests and four stateroom categories over four decks, plus a mezzanine for the pool. They join Aton, Osiris, Ra – also great gods – in Viking’s Egyptian fleet, with Amun, Thoth, Ptah and Sekhmet coming in the near future.

In keeping with the aesthetic of all Viking ships, the design is modern Scandi, a palette of cool blues and neutrals and natural linen, cotton, and wool, and the occasional traditional hardanger embroidery. The artwork is vintage black-and-white photography of Egypt over the last two centuries. My room features a leather chair and ottoman, a replica of the furniture Lord Carnarvon is sitting on in the photo on the wall above it.

The common areas include a large sundeck and indoor bar, plus two dining rooms: the indoor-outdoor Aquavit Terrace and the Restaurant. The daily menus include local fare such as chicken shawarma or mahshi (stuffed vegetables), plus Western classics such as steak, salmon and apple pie.

Muslim drinking laws and high tariffs mean the alcoholic drink options are slim compared to a standard Viking cruise. For instance, the only wine is locally made and spirits brands are limited. As with Hanan, the crew of 48 is attentive and friendly, and the sparkling new ship a welcome respite from the heat and pace of the days.

Our final stops include the Temple of Esna and some brief solo time in the nearby bazaar and the beautifully preserved Dendera Temple of Hathor in Qena. Sadly, the zodiac, an early example of astronomy, was removed in 1821 and is now in the Louvre. Like at so many historical sites, key pieces like this were stolen – or “collected” – before the establishment of Egypt’s Supreme Council of Antiquities and the associated tourist police.Hanan also tells us of the Festival of the Beautiful Reunion, one of many celebrations in the ancient calendar. This began with statues of Hathor and Horus symbolically unified, then two more weeks of rituals, feasting and one helluva party followed. Yep, she’s definitely the goddess for me.

The writer was a guest of Viking Cruises.

Touring Egypt with Viking Cruises 

Viking’s 12-day Pharaohs & Pyramids journey, beginning and ending in Cairo, is priced from $11,195 a person. Departures are available year round and bookings are open for 2026 and 2027. Enjoy free flights on 2025-2027 voyages up to $2400 per person plus $500 shipboard credit if booked before March 31. 

Originally published as I cruised on the new Nile ships unlocking ancient Egyptian secrets