Robina Town Centre food precinct survivor ticks all the boxes

It’s seen other eateries come and go in its upscale precinct, but this pan-Asian restaurant is a stayer. And there’s a good reason it’s doing so well.

SINCE Gold Coast shopping centre Robina Town Centre lifted the cloche on its $160 million The Kitchens food precinct three years ago, it seems they’ve witnessed more tenants come and go than Australia has had prime ministers.

Of the biggest to say goodbye have been Jimmy Grants from celebrity chef George Calombaris, Honeyeater Kitchen, Elixiba and Mr Pigs Bakehouse, with a competitive hospitality market and downturn in retail spending believed to be behind some of the closures.

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But seemingly going strong at the site after opening in August last year is Mad Asian Kitchen and Bar.

The pan-Asian offering lures in diners with its glowing, electric-lit cherry blossom trees brightening up a dark and moody fit-out heavy with elaborate timber detailing that includes a sprawling bar and outdoor balcony.

But what encourages customers to stay is the broad but interesting menu, stretching from share-style dishes including spring rolls, agedashi tofu and chicken karaage, to sashimi, yakitori, grilled items and salads, noodle and rice dishes and items from the grill and wok.

Salmon carpaccio at Mad Asian Kitchen and Bar. Pic Mark Cranitch.

Often a menu this lengthy and diverse can be as dangerous for the kitchen team as walking a tightrope blindfolded without a safety line – with many falling victim to the old “jack of all trades, master of none” approach to cookery – but, thankfully, that doesn’t seem to be the case here.

First to arrive is a salmon carpaccio ($17) made earthy and piquant with a coriander dressing.

The knife skills are possibly not the most precise on the raw fish, but it’s fresh and the flavours bang-on.

The pork san choy bau ($15) is perhaps even punchier with the soy, capsicum and shallot-tossed minced meat ready to be scooped into crunchy baby cos leaves delivering textural little blissful bites.

Pork gyoza ($9) boast perfectly steamed centres and crisp, pan-fried pastry shells, while the tsukune is well seasoned with a sweet caramelised crust and delicate texture.

Pork san choy bau at the Mad Asian Kitchen and Bar. Picture: Mark Cranitch

An omakase, three-course menu ($50 each) is also available for those overwhelmed by the choice and simply want someone else to do the choosing, and there’s a generous chef’s table offering for just $90 per person including wagyu, lobster, scallops and prawns among others.

Matching the menu for breadth is the drinks list, with a considerable range of craft, mainstream and international beers, affordable sparklings, and low-priced wines from popular bottle shop labels; as well as more cocktails than you can shake a martini at, running from Asian-inspired signature blends to classics and share-style drinks like sangria, Pimm’s and punch.

The only hiccup is the service.

While staff members are friendly, they are not the most attentive and food is very slow to leave the kitchen.

Fix that and this is a restaurant you’d happily refuel at after an intense session of retail therapy.

MAD ASIAN

Address The Kitchens, 19 Robina Town Centre Drive, Robina Town Centre, Gold Coast

Phone [phone]

Web madasiankitchenandbar.com

Open Daily 11.30am-late