Restaurant review of A Touch of Salt in Townsville

The sense of fun and attention to detail provided by staff at this establishment won’t soon be forgotten. Nor its dishes, which make the most of local produce.

“Oh my God, I want to hang out with him,” says my friend about our charming and jocular waiter, James. “He’s so fun.”

Finding great restaurant staff in this age of booming hospitality growth can be harder than taking out first division in Powerball, but Townsville’s family-run A Touch of Salt seems to have done just that with their charismatic team.

James balances informative service with cheek and banter in a way that can only lift your mood, while co-owner Mark offers effortless professionalism.

I always say, service can make or break your dining experience, and at this smart modern Australian, it makes it.

Goat's cheese gnocchi at A Touch of Salt restaurant, Townsville. Picture: Michael Chambers

It’s also clearly one of the reasons why the restaurant has become the go-to destination for locals celebrating a special occasion, a date night or who just want something a little extra.

The a la carte East-meets-West menu is, of course, the other drawcard.

Diners can take the Asian route with dishes like charred pork yakitori or sand crab and scallop dumplings, or perhaps head to Europe with beef short rib, cauliflower puree and mushrooms. It’s an eclectic offering, cemented in French technique while making the most of local produce.

A starter of baked scallops ($16) are a clever take on the old oysters kilpatrick, with the molluscs fixed to their shell by a sticky bacon jalapeño jam and zesty lemon breadcrumb.

While James sways us to an entree of goat’s cheese gnocchi ($18) and it’s obvious why this dish is his favourite.

Duck wellington at A Touch of Salt restaurant, Townsville. Picture: Michael Chambers

The gnocchi arrives as four disks, pan-fried til golden and crisp on the surface, boasting a pillowy centre that excites with the tang of the cheese. Add to it a scattering of sliced asparagus, slivers of purple carrot, sorrel leaves, and a carrot and buttermilk puree and we’re singing James’ and the chef’s praises.

Gold band snapper ($36) is the fish of the day, shrouded beneath a garden of peas, snow peas, leak, sorrel leaves and deliciously smoky calamari. The fish is cooked perfectly, but it’s cloak of vegetables has sadly softened the crisp skin, taking the edge off an otherwise great dish.

The classic wellington is given an Asian twist, ditching beef in favour of pulled duck ($35).

Wattleseed custard tart at A Touch of Salt restaurant, Townsville. Picture: Michael Chambers

It’s paired with bitey kohlrabi remoulade, salt baked beets, caramelised pear and a quince jus. The flavour combinations are on point, but its richer than Bill Gates and a little too heavy going for us after our first courses. Order it as a main alone or have a serious appetite, though, and you’ll be more than satisfied.

Desserts reinvent the classics with the likes of sticky date pudding with baked pears and salted caramel ice cream, or cherry ripe brownie with rosella and vanilla cream. A wattle seed custard tart ($14) with parsnip ice cream balances sweet and savoury well, and just needs slightly thinner, crisper pastry to really pop.

The wine list could do with a bit more imagination and scope, but the cocktails are well made, particularly the plum sour.

Book a seat outside on the candlelit terrace overlooking the Ross River, and you’ll be in for a treat.

QUEENSLAND TASTE REVIEW - A Touch of Salt, 86-124 Ogden St, Townsville City - Waitress Arianna Pala at A Touch of Salt restaurant, Townsville. 07/03/2019. Photo: Michael Chambers

A TOUCH OF SALT

Address 86 Ogden St, Townsville

Phone [phone]

Web atouchofsalt.com.au

Open Lunch Fri, Dinner Tues-Sat

VERDICT

Food 8

Service 9

Ambience 7.5

Value 8

OVERALL SCORE 8