Restaurant review: Burleigh Heads’ Rick Shores lives up to its epic beach view

OUR food editor is a tough reviewer, but this beachside restaurant in southeast Queensland came close to the perfect score for food, service and ambience.

IF popular Gold Coast eatery Rick Shores was an athlete, it would be in the form of its life.

Perched on the white sands of Burleigh Beach, surfers almost at arm’s reach from the full-length bi-fold windows which reveal views to Surfers Paradise and beyond, it has carefully refined every element of its game, delivering an Olympic gold-winning performance.

While this is a venue that could easily rest on its laurels thanks to that conversation-stopping vista, it’s instead pushing itself to be better, and succeeding.

Yes, many of the dishes that have become favourites remain, but they have been tweaked and improved.

The view at Rick Shores at Burleigh Heads is just as good as their food. Picture: Adam Head

The dining room. Picture: Richard Gosling

Take the signature Moreton Bay bug roll, for example.

The batter on the seafood seems lighter, crisper.

The sriracha-infused mayo has been pepped up, delivering a good kick of heat that, like a great supporting actor, underpins the main star – the bug – without stealing the show.

Meanwhile, the kingfish sashimi tastes as if it has been plucked straight from the waves that crash outside the restaurant, zinged up with the Japanese citrus yuzu, wasabi cream, julienned apple and the finest dice of ginger.

The kingfish sashimi at Rick Shores, Burleigh Heads.

The popular curries of king prawns and brisket also remain, but for a slightly lighter touch there’s the share-style portion of snapper.

It arrives gently steamed to hold its shape, given a meaty hit from shavings of Chinese sausage lup cheong and richness courtesy of a scallop cream.

Pair it with the generous serving of baby carrots bathing in indulgent bone marrow butter, dotted with squirts of black garlic and gratings of fresh horseradish, and it’s a meal to satisfy.

But full marks have to go to dessert.

The chocolate parfait with brown rice miso and potato skin at Rick Shores, Burleigh Heads.

Combining chips and chocolate in one dish may sound like a pregnant woman’s guilty pleasure but here it’s a moment of inspired genius.

The dessert sweet and savoury fusion featuring chocolate parfait, brown rice miso, potato ice cream served in the shape of fries crowned with a candied potato skin is both the weirdest and most wonderful sweet plate I’ve eaten this year.

Coming a close second is the restaurant’s other dessert of slightly tart yoghurt foam, sprinkled with a ginger biscuit crumb, coriander seeds, icy shards of apple sorbet and a green-hued white chocolate dome, which is supposed to be cracked into spreading a liquid apple juice centre throughout the dish.

A dessert of yoghurt, apple and ginger crumble at Rick Shores, Burleigh Heads.

Unfortunately the dome liquid is frozen solid on our visit, perhaps denying it of its title of best dessert.

But the error is instantly picked up by one of the intuitive, attentive and charming staff, with a replacement dessert offered immediately.

It is just one example of the exceptional care given to diners which shows that service doesn’t have to be stuffy or formal to be outstanding.

With its cracking drinks list (exploring the cocktail list is a must), Rick Shores is making a splash.

VERDICT

Food 9.5

Service 10

Ambience 10

Value 9