Our reviewer rates the new Normanby Hotel

Many a Brisbane reveller has partied at this long-running establishment, which has had several makeovers. We see how the latest one stacks up.

I HAVE had many a big night at Brisbane’s Normanby Hotel.

Dancing to local music legend and covers master Tuffy in the beer garden, getting merry on vodka so cheap it could have stripped paint, and avoiding advances from inebriated men who could barely remember their own name, let alone pronounce mine...

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It was always fun, and there would invariably be a story to tell the next day.

But the sticky, rum-stained floors and barely functioning toilets more banged up than a used car at a hail auction are no more, with the iconic pub undergoing a major facelift and change of ownership before reopening last month.

The newly renovated Normanby Hotel in Red Hill. Picture: Richard Walker

Now the place is positively swish by comparison.

Semi-nautical with red, white and blue painted timber, alongside a series of wooden bar tables and stools, giant rattan pendant lights and red and white umbrellas, the old beer garden feels like it could be beside a marina with prawn trawlers ready to pull up, not semi-trailers full of XXXX.

The vibe is young, but not too young, fresh and family friendly, though still appealing to singles after a relaxed drink.

Upstairs is what could double as the gentlemen’s quarter at a retirement village, where elderly blokes hobble down on their walking frames to enjoy some quiet time smoking cigars away from their wives.

There’s tartan carpet and cushions, leather chesterfields, even a grandfather clock.

The beer garden at the newly renovated Normanby Hotel. Picture: Richard Walker

If you’re not arriving in a courtesy bus from an Aveo facility, sit downstairs.

As for the food offering, it’s classic pub fare, with a few slightly modern additions.

Expect starters like taco loaded fries, garlic bread and spring rolls, joined by bigger options such as burgers, salads, pasta, steaks, pizza, and of course the old chicken schnitty.

Our Cape Grim 250g rump with the choice of two sides and a sauce for only $25 is great value, though it arrives medium-well done rather than the medium-rare requested and needs the help of the well-made pepper sauce for lubrication.

Most of the pizza toppings would be considered sacrilege by Italian gourmands with options like the “Cheeseburger” ($18) with ground beef, bacon, onion, pickles, American mustard and cheese, or the “Mexicana” ($18) with chicken, black beans, corn, pico de gallo, avocado and corn chips.

The margherita pizza at the Normanby Hotel, Brisbane

The margherita ($16) is a satisfactory rendition of the classic, without taking out any prizes. While the kitchen might look at using a different cut of pork for the katsu burger ($17) with the belly piece a little too fatty when crumbed and fried. Alternatively, a little more acid in the accompanying cabbage and apple slaw could balance it out.

The duck in the duck salad ($16, pictured) though is a winner, with a single leg arriving crispy on the outside and fall-apart tender on the inside in a nest of red cabbage, lentils, orange, parmesan and hazelnuts.

The duck salad at the Normanby Hotel, Brisbane

Expect beer from the big players including XXXX, 4 Pines and Matilda Bay, with a couple of local options from Balter and Newstead Brewing; while the tight wine list is no more than a handful of bottle shop faves from the likes of Devil’s Lair and Squealing Pig.

The latest incarnation of the Normanby is certainly not about injecting a gastro element into the pub, but for easy, no-frills fare, its new look ensures comfortable surrounds.

THE NORMANBY HOTEL

Address 1 Musgrave Rd, Red Hill

Phone [phone]

Web thenormanby.com.au

Open Daily 10am-late