It’s hard to imagine a more romantic setting than Persone

AS the river twinkles from the lights of QPAC and the Wheel of Brisbane spins in the distance, it’s hard to imagine a more romantic setting in Brisbane than the Gambaro group’s latest venture.

Persone restaurant in Brisbane city.

AS THE Brisbane River twinkles from the lights of QPAC and the Wheel of Brisbane spins in the distance, it’s hard to imagine a more romantic setting than Persone.

The Italian eatery, hidden among the Brisbane Quarter complex next to W Brisbane, is the latest venture for Brisbane hospitality family the Gambaros (Gambaro Seafood and Black Hide steakhouses) and is a modern, elegant and sophisticated tribute to their Italian heritage.

The round dining room speaks of long dinners with loved ones with indigo carpets soft underfoot, timber and leather chairs easily comfortable enough to while away a couple of hours, moody lighting and, of course, that view.

The outdoor terrace at Persone restaurant in Brisbane city.

Capturing the riverfront in all its glory (as well as a little freeway noise when the floor-to-ceiling glass windows are open), the indoor-outdoor space easily serves up one of the best vistas in Brisbane – either by day or night.

One of the attentive staff tells us the place was at capacity during Riverfire, and it’s not hard to see why.

Also no doubt appealing to the masses is the menu.

The lengthy and diverse offering extends from crudi such as oysters or beef carpaccio into antipasti including pumpkin and goat’s cheese bruschetta, meatballs and grilled asparagus to traditional primi like seafood risotto and pesto gnocchi, into mains of market fish and cotoletta alla milanese, as well as pizze, cooked in their electric PizzaMaster oven.

Persone’s pork and beef ragu – Italian comfort food.

It’s a relatively safe menu, sticking to the classics, but that was the Gambaro vision – to keep it simple, but focus on quality. And it’s a goal that’s achieved with the tuna crudo ($24.50), featuring paper-thin slices of stunning raw tuna cured in a negroni syrup with curls of pickled cucumber and diced orange for acidity.

The pork and beef ragu ($29.50, pictured) delivers those warm and comforting Italian flavours, though our pappardelle could have done with two minutes longer in the boiling water.

Our passionate waiter convinces us to go with the porchetta ($36) over the market fish ($34) for main and we’re grateful for his insistence. The rolled pork belly, served simply with wilted kale and a dab of pumpkin puree, boasts the crispest of crackling and is evidence why this dish has become an Italian staple.

Traditional Italian desserts: The tiramisu at Persone restaurant.

Less exciting is the vegetable-topped Tuscany pizza ($23.50) which really would be so much better with that charry, bubbly base only achieved in a woodfired oven.

Desserts (all $14.50), again, walk a traditional path with the likes of tiramisu and cannoli, while a caramelised fig tart with almond ice cream and honeycomb offers a solid play of textures.

Wines are Italian leaning, but surprisingly predominantly Australian based, though all are well-paired to the food; while a healthy list of classic cocktails and spritzers are also on offer.

For traditional Italian fare in a setting that’s easily among Brisbane’s best, Persone will win fans.

The cannoli.

PERSONE

Address: Lvl 2, 300 George St, Brisbane

Phone: [phone]

Web: persone.com.au

Open: Lunch and dinner Sun-Fri, Sat dinner only

VERDICT

Food 8

Service 8

Ambience 8.5

Value 8

OVERALL SCORE 8