Gold Coast restaurants: Labart, Burleigh Heads, review

IF you need confirmation the Gold Coast dining scene has come of age, look no further than this new space at Burleigh Heads, the work of an acclaimed chef who has moved north to strike out on his own.

The Seared Mulloway from Labart, Burleigh Heads. Picture: Adam Head

IF you need confirmation the Gold Coast dining scene has come of age, look no further than Labart.

The Burleigh Heads newbie is the handiwork of acclaimed chef Alex Munoz Labart, who eschewed the prestige that came with running much-revered Sydney restaurants Cirrus Dining and Monopole, to move north and strike out on his own with wife Karla.

The result is a sophisticated and smart eatery, tucked just off popular James St, with nods to European craftsmanship but with a casualness that is distinctly Gold Coast.

The open kitchen helps add a touch of theatre to the dining experience.

Kale-hued timber panelling lines the walls, met by a tan leather banquette that runs almost the length of the rectangular space, while industrial sconces and glass and metal pendants cast a gentle glow throughout the subtly masculine space.

But the open kitchen and bar is are the centrepiece, with the relaxed team bringing an element of theatre to the space as diners watch them effortlessly bring dishes to the pass.

The front of house team – led by Karla – is equally laid-back, putting diners at ease with their expert knowledge and approachable delivery.

The share-style menu is modern Australian, heavy with European technique. Think veal tartare with sun-dried tomato, tarragon and potato crisp ($22); barbecued flank steak with creamy egg yolk and charred onion sauce ($38); and their version of the Italian favourite carciofi fritti – crumbed and deep fried globe artichokes with garlic aioli ($12).

Apple ice cream joined by poached rhubarb in a rose-spiked syrup ($15).

The beloved locally caught spanner crab ($24) is treated delicately, its abundant sweetness played up by a seaweed-laced, emulsified stock of their shells and contrasted by charry wilted baby leek; while the mulloway ($34) on our visit is replaced by two small fillets of crisp-skinned saddletail, pungent with dill in a buttery sauce.

The indulgence factor is magnified with a side of golden, fried potato rounds in sour cream bestowed with a hint of smokiness ($10).

There’s a heaviness to the food that makes fitting in dessert a challenge, but for those up for it there’s a chocolate mousse, yoghurt sorbet or an extraordinarily subtle apple ice cream joined by poached rhubarb in a rose-spiked syrup ($15) that’s not really worth stretching the belt notch for.

What is, though, is the drinks list. Expect a diverse and global array of minimal intervention options from the skin-fermented sauvignon blanc by The Hermit Ram to the Tom Shobbrook chenin blanc made with organic and biodynamically grown fruit.

Beer and spirits favour those made locally and cocktails embrace fruity flavours.

There’s certainly a lot to like about Labart and here’s hoping that with the next menu and the change of season, the options will have an increased lightness in keeping with the Gold Coast lifestyle.

LABART

Address: 2a/8 West St, Burleigh Heads

Phone: [phone]

Web: restaurantlabart.com

Open: Lunch Fri-Sun, dinner Wed-Sat