Etsu Izakaya in Mermaid Beach restaurant review

It’s hidden away from the world outside, its only identifying marker a red lantern hung outside at 5pm each day. Here’s what those in the know have been enjoying.

“WAIT, there’s a band playing too? This place is so cool,” exclaims my friend.

We’re at Mermaid Beach’s Etsu Izakaya, a hidden Japanese eatery screened from the Gold Coast Highway by a pale, sliding barn door, with its only identifying marker a single red lantern that is hung outside at 5pm each day.

Kitchen Confidential: Brisbane dining news and gossip

Paddington Social review: Cafe/bakery by day and Thai restaurant by night

More Qld dining news and reviews

This is a place for those in the know. A dark, moody den of fun and frivolity, with a fit-out of enviable proportions boasting what looks like a skate ramp wrapping part of the wall and ceiling, a foliage-free tree extruding from the centre of a table, neon signs lighting walls and bold, colourful murals.

The quirky fit-out at Etsu Izakaya, Mermaid Beach. Picture: Russell Shakespeare

As my friend says, it’s cool, and the live band that provides the rootsy, grungy soundtrack simply adds to the appeal.

It’s the type of venue you come for a drink with friends, but must leave the car at home because you’ll quickly find yourself deep into the Japanese-inspired beverage list, which runs from old and new world wines and true Japanese beers from the likes of Niigata Beer and Hitachino Nest Beer, to sake, shochu, umeshu, plum wines, Japanese whiskies and cool cocktails that use them all.

For those new to sake, a flight is highly recommended, with three of the fermented rice alcoholic drinks presented on a board for you to sip your way through.

As for the food, the menu is just as diverse, divided into different sections including raw, sushi maki, robata, agemono, salads, bigger bits and pieces, and a premium meat selection. There are also two omakase menus, where the chef chooses the dishes for you with the option for matching wines and sake.

They’re great value, starting at only $55, but we’re more interested in choosing our own adventure.

Perhaps that’s where we go wrong, though.

Etsu used to have some of the best Japanese chefs in the state, but a couple of years ago they moved on to Kiyomi at The Star, and finding kitchen talent of the same calibre has been a struggle.

The hamachi carpaccio at Etsu Izakay. Picture: Russell Shakespeare

The hamachi carpaccio ($21) is the first and only highlight of our meal, with thin slices of kingfish zingy and zesty with a yuzu soy dressing and jalapeno.

But the maguro sushi ($18) is poorly made, with the tuna at its centre mushy and unidentifiable, while the fish on top looks like it’s been sliced with scissors, not the precision and expertise of a sushi master.

The Hokkaido scallops ($21) arrive bouncy and overcooked, there is virtually no sign of the pork crackling crumb and the jalapeno sauce is about as hot as an ice bath.

The buta no kakuni ($21) – five squares of pork belly with ginger salsa – are better but the spicy miso promised is a little lacklustre.

Etsu Izakaya’s Hokkaido scallops. Picture: Russell Shakespeare

As for dessert, it’s perhaps the most disappointing with our “chocolate soup” a montage of bland, badly made chocolate ice cream, flavourless soils, chocolate custard and ruby chocolate shard, while the miso ice cream is icy rather than creamy and slap-you-in-the-face salty.

It’s devastating because as a venue, Etsu is so terrific. The staff are welcoming and well-informed, the vibe is brilliant, drinks list great, but now the food needs to lift to match it.