Review: Greca, Howard Smith Wharves, Brisbane city

Kick back with the perfect pace and play of flavours at this great Greek arrival to Howard Smith Wharves.

Acid. It’s a definitive ingredient in wine and a vital, but often underplayed, element in food.

Vinegar, citrus, pineapple, tamarind and the rest of the sours all play a role in defining the balance of a dish — the interplay between sweet and sour, depth and vitality.

It’s a lesson not lost on the Greca kitchen, where acidity is used lavishly, and rather cleverly.

Here’s an example — saganaki cheese with honey and oregano ($17).

There’s a real risk, given the richness of the ingredients, of things being too sweet, too ponderous.

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But at Greca, they’ve splashed in a heap of lemon juice, balancing the honey and cutting the rich fattiness of the cheese.

It teeters perfectly, treading the highwire with barely a wobble.

So too does the chicken — again dressed with lemon (it’s such a Greek staple, but there’s magic in its presence and at Greca, they’ve just turned it up a notch or two) — cooked over charcoal, pepper and greens.

So simple, so very good ($36).

Grilled king prawns, herb dressing at Greca, Howard Smith Wharves. Photo: Tara Croser

Greca sits just up the path from Felons Brewing Co. at the Howard Smith Wharves complex, a place that seems to have catalysed a frenzy — like ABBA, like Elvis, like seagulls and a bag of hot chips.

And it wouldn’t be hard to forgive lapses in service, given the frantic pace of the precinct on a weekend evening.

Honestly, it’s a mass of dressed-up humanity raucously bouncing from one venue to another, voicing opinions, singing along. Loudly.

But Greca doesn’t miss a beat. It’s like we are the only people dining there (which couldn’t be further from the truth).

Everything rolls along at a perfect pace — menus, water, drinks and food.

Greca at Howard Smith Wharves. Photo: Tara Croser

There’s even banter from the staff; one moment a guy is removing a rowdy few from the bar, the next, he’s checking on our happiness. Nice.

Back to the food … Grilled octopus ($28) tossed with parsley, pickled chillies (there’s some more sour), a puddle of olive oil, and another of skordalia. It’s terrific.

Mussels, peas and chilli baked on a stone (all nestled together in baking paper, $22) is good, but the least of a great set.

And the Village salad ($17) — a pseudonym for a classic Greek salad — is nothing remarkable, but just a very, very good example.

It gets washed down with a Young Henrys IPA followed by a fragrant, crunchy glass of Kir-Yianni Paranga, one of the many new-breed, delicious Greek wines making their (rather overdue) way to Australia.

Katoumari: smashed filo, walnuts, semolina cream at Greca. Photo: Tara Croser

It’s one of several Greek wines dotting the long, but cleverly contrived, drinks list, which covers a multitude of countries, bouncing around France, Italy, Corsica, Spain, Australia, Greece and probably a few places I haven’t mentioned.

Given the extraordinary popularity of Howard Smith Wharves, the Greca crew could happily skate along doing very little and still fill the seats.

But that hasn’t happened.

The service isn’t remotely formal, but it is engaging, attentive and done with a smile.

And despite the volume of dishes that must be trotting out of its kitchen, Greca manages some very smart food.

SCORES OUT OF 10

Food: 8

Drinks: 8

Vibe: 7.5

Service: 8

GRECA

Howard Smith Wharves, 5 Boundary St, city

Ph: 3839 1203

Chef: Harry Lilai

Lunch and dinner daily. Vegetarian options